Four Myths About Ductless Mini-Splits

Mini split in room near ceiling

Understanding the Pros & Cons of Ductless Mini-Split AC Systems

Over the past few years we have all observed the U.S. HVAC industry’s fascination with ductless “mini-split” air conditioning systems in the U.S. Recent HVAC trade shows have been crowded with OEM’s promoting this “new” way of providing home comfort. National advertising and media/public relations tactics would make us think it is just a matter of time before we all say goodbye to our central AC systems and get with the rest of the world (i.e. Japan, China and Europe) in the way we keep our homes and businesses cool and comfortable.

The article below was written in 2013. We have updated information for homeowners busting myths about ductless mini split systems, outlining what to consider when choosing a new HVAC system, as well as recommendations on when a ductless system might be right for your space.

The AC & Heating Connect staff has also conducted research on ductless systems and uncovered some facts that might be of interest to contractors and distributors as the industry plans for the future growth of this segment.

Myth #1 – The sales of ductless mini-spit systems continue to grow and will dominate the U.S. market in a few years.

Industry statistics would not support this statement. While the ductless segment has posted impressive growth rates in the U.S. since 2005, the growth rates have been slowing recently and the largest ductless segment (small, single evaporator systems) have not grown at all since 2010. These sales remain stable at about 260,000 units per year, or only about 4% of total unitary AC shipments. Some larger VRF-style commercial systems continue to grow at higher rates, but their numbers in the U.S. remain small at only 28,000 units per year.

Myth #2 – Ductless mini-splits are ideal whole-home HVAC solutions in the U.S.

The current economic facts about ductless simply do not support this claim. The installed costs associated with using mini-splits to cool and heat an average 2,000 square foot home with ductless mini-splits would cost almost three times the cost of simply replacing your central AC system with another ducted system. Even in a home where you had to provide new ductwork for the central system, you could still expect to spend about 50% less on a typical central AC system installation versus the more expensive ductless options.

Myth #3 – Ductless mini-splits are more energy efficient because there are no air leaks in the ductwork.

What people who make this claim fail to mention is that in ducted homes, which have poorly installed and leaking air ducts, the conditioned air is probably leaking out of the ductwork but it is going into the conditioned space somewhere and helping to keep the house cool. In those cases the cooling energy is really not lost to the homeowner. While mini-splits don’t have duct losses, they do have other losses. Instead of distributing conditioned air throughout the home, mini-splits distribute refrigerant. In many cases these refrigerant lines are run outside the conditioned space and in these cases there are thermal losses associated with energy transferring from those lines to the space outside the home. A legitimate energy loss occurs when you are heating or cooling your backyard with mini-split refrigerant lines (see photo below). Duct leaks that leak into the conditioned space are not really losses at all unless they escape to an unconditioned space. The other claim made by mini-split advocates is that they provide energy saving due to “zoning” or shutting off energy use in unoccupied rooms. What they fail to mention is there are other modern methods to zone off rooms besides using ductless methods. There are many ways to achieve zoning.

*Discover the updated status of this myth here.

Myth #4 – Ductless mini-splits provide superior comfort and quality of life.

The problems with ductless cooling are not well understood by many U.S. consumers since they are relatively new to this region. The typical comfort experience with mini-split systems could provide a real challenge for American consumers who are used to central AC systems with good airflow exchange, filtration and humidity control. Cold and hot spots are also common with ductless systems due to the spacing of the indoor units. In addition, there are concerns about US homeowners’ reaction to the aesthetic and architectural impact of having air conditioning systems hanging on several interior walls and having refrigerant lines running to various rooms on the sides of their homes. Before installing a ductless system with multiple evaporating units it might be good to show your customer some photographs of some of your previous mini-split installations so they have proper expectations.

*Discover the updated status of this myth here.

The Bottom Line on Ductless Mini-Split Systems

Ductless mini-split systems are ideal for spot cooling situations in homes and businesses where ductwork is either not available or difficult to install. It is important for contractors to have these systems in their portfolio of HVAC solutions for certain situations and learning where and when to recommend them is essential. Knowing the facts associated with these new systems is also essential to avoiding problems when customers are surprised by the many “myths” about this technology.

The myths in this article have been reevaluated. You can find the updated article here.

What has your experience been with ductless mini-splits? Leave us a comment below!

A typical indoor wall-mounted, evaporating unit – usually one per room are required to minimize hot and cold spots.

A typical U.S. style home is shown here with a retrofit mini-split system. Notice the exterior line sets and condensate drains. Thermal losses could be expected from the vertical, external refrigerant lines and these might cause the system to have trouble keeping up on really hot days. Also, notice that the window-room air conditioners have not yet been removed. A close up photo of the house above, showing the external refrigerant lines and a condensate drain line. Ductless mini-split systems are often used to cool room additions as shown here in the garage area. A large, high rise apartment building is shown, using many mini-split systems – one or more per apartment.A large, urban apartment building is shown, using mini-split systems – one or more per apartment.

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538 thoughts on “Four Myths About Ductless Mini-Splits

  1. Hello Frank,

    My home is stucco flat roof home that does not have existing ductwork and no attic space. Have been talking with a few HVAC companies about installing a heating and cooling unit. One company recommends setting combo unit on the roof and putting ductwork in hallway. The second company recommends putting unit and ductwork on the roof. Third company recommends installing a mini split system. Appreciate your advice. Than you, Joanna.

    • We have a mitsubishi on our flat roof home in the Northwest (Washington State). We couldn’t be happier no having ductwork and having heat and air conditioning from one unit. Our electric bill in only $14 per month but it is just three of us in a 3,800 sq ft home. We put cadets in each guest bedroom, spare bathrooms, and office on their own thermostats which are rarely used. We have two Mitsubishi units in our large common area (living, dining, hall) and one in a large master bedroom. Cooling is seldom needed because we are close to Puget Sound. We have a new well-insulated house with LED lighting to reduce electricity costs. It is by far the least electrical useage we have had on any home.

      • Thank you John for your feedback. What do you know about placement of the cadets on the interior walls? Also are the lines running on the exterior of your home unattractive? Thanks.

        • Hi Joanna,

          Since we had new construction we put the cadets just inside the doors with thermostats and light switch above, very efficient.

          The lines on outside from heatpump go into the wall so very little shows on the outside. Not sure how a retrofit would work. However all of this is on the utility side with gas meter, electric meter so one expects to see (stuff).

      • John, is the $14/month electric bill you mentioned in you comment for heating and cooling your entire home? That seems very low. Can you estimate how much electricity
        (kwh)you use on average in the winter? We are building a two-family home in the Northeast and are considering installing ductless mini-splits for the entire HVAC system or doing a combo of forced hot water radiant baseboard (natural gas) with ductless mini-splits for A/C. Also, can you tell me if you think the cadets for the bathrooms are required or did you install them just for extra heating?

  2. my daughter lives in the Keys and her home was damaged by Irma…they are researching and wanting to install ductless units..home is about 900 sq ft.. total gut and rebuild..they will have open living and kitchen with 2 bedrooms and 2 bath. after exposing the wood beams in ceiling they decided to go ductless .cinder block exterior.. any suggestions? thank you

  3. We have central AC but the unit is too small and there is no room for a bigger one. The master is 10-20 hotter then the rest of the house. We are trying to decide if we should do a mini split or do an in the wall AC unit. I can’t find anything that speaks plainly about the cost to run either or. We live in TX and it’s hot most of the time. It just seems crazy to spend 2,000+ on cooling a 400sq space but if we would spend that much in electricity with a wall unit then it makes sense.

    • Hi Lisa, Here are a few answers to your questions. The efficiency or energy usage is usually designated by a “SEER” rating (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) which should be shown on a label on the outside of the unit. The higher the SEER, the better the efficiency and the less energy you will be using for given capacity setting.

      The room that is warm is probably at the end of ductwork and further away from your indoor cooling unit (evap coil and air handler). By the time the conditioned air gets to that room it may have already been warmed up and lost its cooling capacity. You might look at the duct line that is leading to that room to inspect for air leaks or you might try adding some insulation to preserve the cooling capacity. You can also look at all the other vents in the house that are closer to that unit and maybe close them a bit to direct more cool air to the room that is not getting enough cool air.

      If none of that works and you are sure your system is running properly (i.e. it is cooling the other rooms well, etc) then it makes sense to add a small system to that room to keep it cool. The lowest cost and easiest to install would be a window AC unit. This might address your problem but you would have to give up your window to do it. These are not usually very energy efficient but they are small enough that they do not use much energy anyway and might meet your needs.

      Through the wall units are a lot like window units except you don’t give up the window – but you do have to cut a hole in your wall. You might still have issues with noise like you would with a window unit since you have the whole unit right next to you instead of separated like your central system or a mini-split.

      Mini-splits are available with very high SEER efficiencies and have many benefits – outdoor unit is separate so it can be very quiet. They usually feature variable speed capability so this might address any humidity or airflow issues.

      if your central system is pretty old (over 14-16 years) you might consider just replacing it and adding some duct work to the room that is getting warm. If it is newer than that then adding a smaller unit to that space might work for you. Hope this helps.

  4. Planning to build 950 sf cabin – 2bdrm/2bth, 12×24 equipment basement with joist floor above, rest of floor slab-on-grade with in-floor heating. This is in Central Minnesota. Due to lake-shore building restrictions, we are stuck with current footprint. We will raze and rebuild from scratch, using footings buried 5′ deep. Roof is very low pitch – 2:12 is all we can have. Thought was to use mini-split with ceiling cassettes – one in kitchen-living room area, one small one in a 10×10 bedroom, and one in larger bedroom with short hidden ducts to the 2 small adjacent bathrooms. With heat pump outside, plan is to run line set from unit into 2×6 wall and up to attic – from there run to the 3 cassettes. Attic will be conditioned space, as roof will be insulated – known as “hot roof” in the area. Thinking a 12k-btu for the main, a 6k-btu for small bedroom, maybe 8k-btu for master bedroom with supplemental in-attic ducts to the 2 bathrooms which are both adjacent to master bedroom.
    Any thoughts??

    • Hi Larry, That should work. If you want to be certain on the capacity you might call a contractor who can check to make sure you have selected the right sizes considering things like level of insulation, shade, windows and doors, etc. Another thought might be to have another heating source for the coldest part of the season as the electric based heat pumps (all of them – central or mini-splits) are not very efficient when the ambient temperature gets below about 15F. This is called a “dual fuel” approach when you get something other than electric based heating for the really cold periods or when electric rates are high etc.

      • I see my picture wasn’t complete. Plan is for in-floor heating, as 2/3 of floor is slab, 1/3 joists over 12×24 “crawl space” that is 7′-high, which will also have in-floor heat in its poured floor. Plan was to use mini-split for A/C and for “transitional heat” for Spring and Fall while heat pump can easily do the job, and using hydronic in-floor heat for real winter. At issue is whether we can make ceiling cassettes work. The smallest cassette is much too large for a single bathroom, and we’re trying to figure a way for one unit to handle 2 small adjacent baths and a bedroom.

  5. Appreciate the original poster allowing all these comments even though they aren’t all flattering. It’s good to hear all the pros and cons we can. Thanks

    • Thanks Red! I wrote the original post back in 2013 just to get some dialogue going. At the time there was a lot of industry buzz about ductless mini-splits taking over the world (or at least every home in the US…) and I just wanted to present both sides of the story as to where this technology makes the most sense.

      I think a lot of people can now at least see all the pros and cons. As long as the visitor posts are not offensive to our readers or are violating our policies about ads, etc we usually leave most comments stand on their own. Thanks for visiting our site!

  6. I am really confused here. I think i found a reputable dealer through our local PUD. I have had multiple quotes. The ductless came in 1K less than a furnace/heatpump combination. I have a 1400sq foot manufactured home. He recommended one 1800 btu for the living room/dining room/kitchen space (all open); 900 but for the master bedroom; and 600 btu for the smaller guest room. This is $7400.00 (with rebates, etc). I have asthma so i thought maybe going ductless would be better as far as cleaner air. He told me that the filters can be washed and re-used. Has anyone heard of this? I am having a hard time with the “paradigm shift”.

    • Do yourself a favor and get the furnace and heat pump setup. I gaurantee if you get a reputable contractor to install it will last a lot longer than a mini split. Also parts will be a lot easier to get when a repair is needed!

    • Suzan: while I’ve only had my mini splits for 2 months I’ve now had them through the heat of the Summer. While I don’t have allergies, etc….one (of many) reasons I sold myself on mini splits was the ductless feature. YES! Was a huge paradigm shift for me as well. I have a 100 year old home and architecturally speaking, didn’t want to detract from the house. I’m finicky as all get out and they don’t bother me. That was one paradigm shift.

      I did have them quote my 2nd floor fully ducted and it was mildly more expensive. I kept reading and reading and reading and decided to go with ductless. They were able to hide all but one ‘run’ outside so no eye sores there. As I mentioned, the interior – doesn’t bother me at all like I thought it might.

      Instead, what I have is 5 zones in my 2,700 square foot house that I can cool (or heat) specific to each rooms demands. A south western facing room on the 2nd floor needs set differently than a northeastern facing room on the first floor. I can adjust accordingly in all five zones.

      The thoughts of looking inside ductwork after even a year of use sort of grossed me out. Not to mention 2 yrs, 3 yrs down the road. Fact of matter is how many people do you know with ducted systems that have them cleaned? Then being the skeptic that I am, are they really clean? Each of the Mitsubishi ductless units I have has three filters. I don’t remember exactly what each does but there is a larger one you remove, rinse, let dry and replace. Then there’s two smaller filters that get replaced roughly annually.

      I’m still new to the whole mini split idea as well but I did it and granted it’s only been two months but I’m not sorry.

      (I had started documenting my thoughts and experience on this site because I couldn’t find a ton of information. I wanted to help others contemplating as I did. And I couldn’t believe the original authors article. It was so slanted against)

      • Thank you, Eric!! This article had me a tad worried but now, I’m not. We are scheduled to have one minisplit unit installed this month in our den. I think we’ve made the right choice.

    • Ductless mini-splits are definitely not the best option in all situations. For a normal suburban house say four bedroom two bath, 2200sq ft I would definitely get central heat & air. But if your living situation is different, especially smaller or open floor plan they can be great and yes super efficient. I live in a small one bedroom house with pretty open floor plan about 750 to 800 sq ft and have only one mitsubishi mini-split and I like it cold. Yesterday it was 108 degrees and my 10 year old unit was easily chilling my place to 61 degrees and wasn’t even turned up half way. The thing is amazing. Costs about 25 bucks a month in electricity. You must maintain it correctly which can be a little difficult if done right but also cheap no new parts are ever needed and filters are reusable. The entire cost of maintenance is just cleaning supplies, coil cleaner mostly and the it. I’m very happy with my Mitsubishi.

  7. I am a hvac contractor and I installed 2 multi head Fujitsu systems on a 3400 sqft spray foamed house in arkansas and so far there electric bill this summer has been $100 a month.

  8. We installed two mitsubishi mr slim units in our barndominium here in south texas in 2015. It is a small barndominium and it is insulated very well but these things are still amazing. I didn’t run them that much in the winter for heat but in the summers i keep them at 64-65 inside and on dehumidify mode, my wife swears we can hang meat in here. 😉
    I am starting the dream house in 3 months and contemplating using mini splits we like them so much…

    also, if you want to get the most out of the cooling/dehumidify mode you should run it on whisper mode. This causes the air to pass over the coil longer which is key to dehumidifying.

    • I am planning to build a small 1150 square foot barndominium soon. I want to do the mini split system but I’m told it’s just too expensive. A builder of barndominiums tell me this and then I called a AC Service close by and they said it was over $5,000 a piece per unit. Then I noticed I can buy at Home Depot for around 1700 and anyone with some electrical and or Plumbing Service can actually install. I’m so confused. But this is what I want and I wish I could find someone here in South Texas to do it. Thank you for your input.

      • Yes you can find mini splits at Home Depot. You can find a or ofmthings at Home Depot if you trust their contractors. That will be your call.

        I had a “diamond” hvac installer (Mitsubishi talk) do the work for me nuts to bolts. Total of 5 areas (units) and cost about $21k and change. This did not include the upgrade I had to make to my electric panel). So you can do,the math.

        Here’s why I’d only work with a qualified installer:
        1. They sized each unit appropriately for the room size, space and location of each room. They take things into consideration like first or second level, room size, exposire to weather, etc…
        2. They’ve done this before. I have an old home and did not want someone drilling holes in my house that didn’t know what the are doing. I also wanted someone to use their head and hide as much of the our door lines as possible.
        3. I wanted someone who could give an honest opinion for the location of each unit.
        4. Cost is important. I had quote from two diamond installers. I chose the more expensive because I worked with them before and they seemed more ‘into’ my concerns and questions. They didn’t pressure anything.
        5. They have a ‘hotline’ right in to Mitsubishi
        6. They’ve been responsive to all my questions and follow up
        7. Extended warranty on parts

        There could be many reasons why something cost more or less. These area few that made me feel comfortable making the decision that I did. And these guys gotta pay people. I had a crew of 3-5 people here for a week straight not to mention some follow up.

  9. I am in central PA and always used window units.I Got older and tired of lifting them so I contacted several contractors on mini split installations. Most of them tried to talk me into central air and was quoted 12.000 to install because I needed ducting also. They were really against minisplits. Finally I got a contractor to install two 12k mini units and that was the best move I could have made at 4,600 dollars complete. Going on five years now and absolutely love them. I get them serviced every year and the evaporator squirrel fan is critically important that it gets cleaned annually or performance will go way down so I clean IT myself. I realized the contractor was not cleaning that fan even though I paid for it. You really have to watch these heating and cooling guys, many will take shortcuts and many will mislead you on what you need to install. Its a nasty industry full of shady technicians. DO YOUR HOMEWORK so you can decide if you have an honest contractor.

  10. I have installed pioneer brand in a 1300 sq ft rental house. 1 in living room and 1 in each bedroom. I keep asking tenants about their electric bill, highest bill in the last 2 years was $140. Cost for each unit was around $600. I’m a technical person and my husband is a mechanical person, so we were able to install ourselves. No problems so far. The remotes that came with them are pretty cheap, one year when changing from cool to heat mode, it didn’t want to go to heat. But a quick search and found out to take the batteries out of the remote for a few seconds. Did that and was able to swap to heat mode. They have been a great investment and tenants are very happy. Not nearly as expensive as what’s been mentioned here.

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