Four Myths About Ductless Mini-Splits

Mini split in room near ceiling

Understanding the Pros & Cons of Ductless Mini-Split AC Systems

Over the past few years we have all observed the U.S. HVAC industry’s fascination with ductless “mini-split” air conditioning systems in the U.S. Recent HVAC trade shows have been crowded with OEM’s promoting this “new” way of providing home comfort. National advertising and media/public relations tactics would make us think it is just a matter of time before we all say goodbye to our central AC systems and get with the rest of the world (i.e. Japan, China and Europe) in the way we keep our homes and businesses cool and comfortable.

The article below was written in 2013. We have updated information for homeowners busting myths about ductless mini split systems, outlining what to consider when choosing a new HVAC system, as well as recommendations on when a ductless system might be right for your space.

The AC & Heating Connect staff has also conducted research on ductless systems and uncovered some facts that might be of interest to contractors and distributors as the industry plans for the future growth of this segment.

Myth #1 – The sales of ductless mini-spit systems continue to grow and will dominate the U.S. market in a few years.

Industry statistics would not support this statement. While the ductless segment has posted impressive growth rates in the U.S. since 2005, the growth rates have been slowing recently and the largest ductless segment (small, single evaporator systems) have not grown at all since 2010. These sales remain stable at about 260,000 units per year, or only about 4% of total unitary AC shipments. Some larger VRF-style commercial systems continue to grow at higher rates, but their numbers in the U.S. remain small at only 28,000 units per year.

Myth #2 – Ductless mini-splits are ideal whole-home HVAC solutions in the U.S.

The current economic facts about ductless simply do not support this claim. The installed costs associated with using mini-splits to cool and heat an average 2,000 square foot home with ductless mini-splits would cost almost three times the cost of simply replacing your central AC system with another ducted system. Even in a home where you had to provide new ductwork for the central system, you could still expect to spend about 50% less on a typical central AC system installation versus the more expensive ductless options.

Myth #3 – Ductless mini-splits are more energy efficient because there are no air leaks in the ductwork.

What people who make this claim fail to mention is that in ducted homes, which have poorly installed and leaking air ducts, the conditioned air is probably leaking out of the ductwork but it is going into the conditioned space somewhere and helping to keep the house cool. In those cases the cooling energy is really not lost to the homeowner. While mini-splits don’t have duct losses, they do have other losses. Instead of distributing conditioned air throughout the home, mini-splits distribute refrigerant. In many cases these refrigerant lines are run outside the conditioned space and in these cases there are thermal losses associated with energy transferring from those lines to the space outside the home. A legitimate energy loss occurs when you are heating or cooling your backyard with mini-split refrigerant lines (see photo below). Duct leaks that leak into the conditioned space are not really losses at all unless they escape to an unconditioned space. The other claim made by mini-split advocates is that they provide energy saving due to “zoning” or shutting off energy use in unoccupied rooms. What they fail to mention is there are other modern methods to zone off rooms besides using ductless methods. There are many ways to achieve zoning.

*Discover the updated status of this myth here.

Myth #4 – Ductless mini-splits provide superior comfort and quality of life.

The problems with ductless cooling are not well understood by many U.S. consumers since they are relatively new to this region. The typical comfort experience with mini-split systems could provide a real challenge for American consumers who are used to central AC systems with good airflow exchange, filtration and humidity control. Cold and hot spots are also common with ductless systems due to the spacing of the indoor units. In addition, there are concerns about US homeowners’ reaction to the aesthetic and architectural impact of having air conditioning systems hanging on several interior walls and having refrigerant lines running to various rooms on the sides of their homes. Before installing a ductless system with multiple evaporating units it might be good to show your customer some photographs of some of your previous mini-split installations so they have proper expectations.

*Discover the updated status of this myth here.

The Bottom Line on Ductless Mini-Split Systems

Ductless mini-split systems are ideal for spot cooling situations in homes and businesses where ductwork is either not available or difficult to install. It is important for contractors to have these systems in their portfolio of HVAC solutions for certain situations and learning where and when to recommend them is essential. Knowing the facts associated with these new systems is also essential to avoiding problems when customers are surprised by the many “myths” about this technology.

The myths in this article have been reevaluated. You can find the updated article here.

What has your experience been with ductless mini-splits? Leave us a comment below!

A typical indoor wall-mounted, evaporating unit – usually one per room are required to minimize hot and cold spots.

A typical U.S. style home is shown here with a retrofit mini-split system. Notice the exterior line sets and condensate drains. Thermal losses could be expected from the vertical, external refrigerant lines and these might cause the system to have trouble keeping up on really hot days. Also, notice that the window-room air conditioners have not yet been removed. A close up photo of the house above, showing the external refrigerant lines and a condensate drain line. Ductless mini-split systems are often used to cool room additions as shown here in the garage area. A large, high rise apartment building is shown, using many mini-split systems – one or more per apartment.A large, urban apartment building is shown, using mini-split systems – one or more per apartment.

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538 thoughts on “Four Myths About Ductless Mini-Splits

  1. I purchased a Fujitsu Mini-Split heat pump in the fall of 2016. In January of 2018 it ceased working and I have been without it now for 2 1/2 months during the coldest weather of the year and Fujitsu has shown no interest in repairing or replacing the unit. In fact, they have continuously lied to my dealer and myself about how long it would take to repair and now for weeks they have lied about shipping it back to me, saying it is shipped when it has not.

    This in no way reflects on my local dealer, Haynes Heating and Air. Haynes has gone out of their way to help me and is being misled just as I am.

    I should have been more careful. I thought that by doing business with a Japanese company that I was assured of doing business with people who are honorable and ethical. But when my unit broke I discovered that the ‘warranty’ only covers parts, not labor. I wish I had seen that before I bought, It would have frightened me off. Luckily, there has been lots of labor involved here and Haynes is eating all those charges, even though they do not have to do so.

    But Fujitsu has been of zero help, and they will tell Haynes whatever they have to just to get them off the phone. They have had the unit in their shop at Fujitsu for all this time because they could not figure out what to do to fix it in the field. And now they have been saying for three weeks that it is shipping when it isn’t. And they had the nerve to say that they were ‘backed up’ and that is the reason they took so long.

    Customer Service does not allow for this. Honor would demand that they replace the unit if they could not fix it in a reasonable amount of time. You just do not take a customer’s heat source from them in the middle of winter and act like it is unimportant to get it back to them.

    Mini-Splits are great. But choose your manufacturer very carefully. Make certain you do business with honest, honorable people who understand the value of a good reputation. I did not do that. I did business with Fujitsu and have lived to regret it. Don’t repeat my mistake.

    Fujitsu has just reported that my unit has once again ‘shipped’. We shall see. I will update this post with more details when and if the unit arrives and can be made to work. I am not optimistic.

  2. I have a 2400 sq ft ranch house in the SF bay area (Ca). Originally had a 1950’s radiant floor heating that was dismantled. I have two fireplaces and have used both for heat. Now just use the pellet stove in one fireplace and the window air conditioner on the few days of extreme heat in summer. I would love to install a heating system/air conditioning–just don’t know what is the best way to go. I am very tired of going to the store, buying pellets and dragging them into the house. Any advice?

    • We suggest contacting a licensed HVAC contractor in your area to get recommendations for what type of equipment should be installed.

  3. February 25th, Kelowna, Canada. I had a Lennox 3 way split installed in June 2017. 1×12000 btu and 2x 9000 but, the system has never worked properly in the individual rooms. Initially during the summer each room took on the temperature of the lowest setting. During the winter it has been the same. Lennox has just had a convention in the US where they apparently discussed the issues with the 3 way split deficiencies. The repair guy (the installer, not lennox ) just came in and put the sensors above the machine (unsightly). Three days later, today, I figured out I have to turn off the other two machines (heads) so that one will work properly. Do not purchase this Lennox 3 way split. I have been talking to my licensed installer for 8 months. Now am asking that they replace it with another brand, also 3 way.
    I paid Can $ 13 000 (thirteen thousand ) for a headache and no reduction in electricity bills.
    Can anyone recommend the best brand and model for my 3 way split.

    • Mitsubishi is the top of the. Rarely do they have any problems, even after a decade of use. Plus Mitsubishi stands behind their products if there is an any issues. Just find a Mitsubishi dealer and you will get a 12 year full warranty. Two thumbs up.

      • Also! if you use “Cielo Breez” smart air conditioner controller with your Mitsubishi Mini-Split or any brand ductless mini-split. Your energy bills have dropped by 20 – 25%. Well! I used personally. I’m satisfied with Breez’s features and it’s performance.

        • i’m not familiar with the remote you refer too nor sure how it relates to the persons issue at hand. But I’ll say this; not sure why anyone would need any other remote for the Mitsubushi splits – they do everything, have timers, etc…..so not sure how what your selling saves $$$ over the remote that comes with the unit.

  4. I bought one of those new fangled Friedrich Breeze for DIYers to plug and play basically. The tubing was so thick and stiff it was like wrestling an anaconda. Because the tubing was so stiff we were short to the ground and ended up making a two foot high stand for it. We have had it almost 5 yrs in June. The unit was made in Mexico by the original owners of the company and the design was poor. So many complained about how it gave not enough room for the wall unit to sit flush. This causes more sound to emanate into the room. No where did they say to clean the sides or how but after about three years we took a closer look and there was so much crud in the fan barrel. On our own and watching videos we attempted to clean it with a can of cleaner from Home Depot and rinsing with hot water. The smell from it was sooo much better. There had to be mold and pollen and grease from the kitchen etc. We have to clean this about once every six months and it is a messy procedure and each time we do we wonder if we have somehow got water in the electronics by accident. The filters on these ductless units are kind of joke compared to the much more extensive filters you have on a furnace. They are like Fisher Price filters. We have a 12-12K unit for a 1K sf house and it is not optimum. Also it doesn’t do a great job of dehumidifying at all. Our windows condensate and it would be nice to have ducts under them drying them off. I need to use Frigidaire dehumidifiers to deal with all the condensation. We have radiant ceiling heat that the local PUD engineers swore was energy efficient and blah blah blah and they were the ones talking folks into making these houses this way back in the early 1970’s. They lied then and lie today. Friedrich sold out and the new owners dumped the Breeze series. Also there are only like 3 customer tech support people there in winter and maybe 10 in summer. When we bought
    Friedich was the leader in air conditioning unit but when it comes to ductless I think they stink. They will not sell us the parts for it but will refer us to an authorized dealer. Right now we think the thermistor for the room temp is out. It just heats up and doesn’t shut off. The part must be about 20.00 at most. I bet we could replace it but we have to have a guy come out and look at it from about 20 miles away, then order the part and then come back and install it. We are covered for parts for the first five years but the joke is on us since the labor etc will be what 10 times that? I have a call into the guy now but he is one man shop from the sounds of it so not sure when he can make it out. In the meantime I am turning the heat on, then when it gets too hot then switching to fan mode. I am the manual thermistor in the meantime. At night we just run the fan. Honestly I am so sick of the state of affairs with appliances that I am thinking outside the box. This year I bought a fancy new Whirlpool fridge that the stainless steel is rusting in small places all over. I use their cleaner too. They all use the cheaper stainless now and there are endless complaints and nothing is done. They are noisy too! So I am not buying anymore big appliances. Just done. I bought portable induction cooktops I can store in the drawer and only cost me 55.00 rather than spending 1300.00 minimum for an unit that will either scratch easily or god knows what else will go wrong with it. I bought fancy Wolf countertop toaster oven with better stainless steel. I am going portable and cheaper now. I will just keep my old dishwasher since the new energy efficient ones are not better just smaller and they rust! I am done with sites like Houzz that continue to sell us the idea of the ideal house stuff. I am sick of home improvement stores like Home Depot and Lowes that sell us crap appliances and know it. When this ductless goes out I will either get portable heaters and air conditioners or pay for furnace and heat pump. I have done the window air conditioners until I opened the fancy big Kenmore we had and it had mold growing all over inside of it an no way to clean it really! I don’t want to spend a lot of money for crap and will spend less on cheaper crap for now since you get about the same results. My daughter just bought a new house from the biggest builder in our state and it was expensive. They used a furnace and had plastic tubing to the vent ducts. No more sheet metal. It seems furnaces might be a more practical way to go not a lot of cleaning and less noise and the parts are simple and more generic not so many electronics on them to fail. Finding a place for it would be a bit problemic but doable. It seems like health care there is no incentive to really find better answers or solutions it is much more profitable to keep the problems in play so they can keep selling you maintenance approach not real cures. I just don’t think it should be that cost prohibitive to make a better way of heating and cooling that will last and covers all the major pain points these things have. All I can say is build it and we will come running!

    • Deanne, you should check the paper/ craigslist for used appliances. Not a used store, preferably an individual entrepreneur! I found a local man this way. You can get older, well made appliances for way cheaper. The guy I go to also gives a guarantee.

  5. The loss of the refrigerant lines in unconditioned space would be minimum compared to the duct in unconditioned space.
    1. The surface area for heat transfer is much larger on the duct.
    2. The insulation is superior on the refrigerant lines. Just compare the thickness.
    3. Duct leak VS sealed copper line.
    Using ducts in conditioned space as argument is pointless since the refrigerant lines can also be in conditioned space. In face, you can see a lot refrigerant lines run in the wall in new constructions.

    As to the high labor cost, I feel this is totally due the slow adaptation of the HVAC contractors. It is very similar procedure in dealing with the refrigerant lines. Plus in mini split system, there’s no need of connecting to duct work. They charge a premium for mini split simply because they haven’t done this, and not willing to try a new system.

    • As a Certified, Mitsubishi Diamond dealer, I can categorically state that mini-splits systems CAN be far superior to ducted systems when proper heat load calculations are done to confirm the mini-split will handle the latent heat load, i.e., humidity and the sensible heat load of a given area; when they are installed using nitrogen brazed joints; and when the electrical grid they are connected to provides clean , i.e., no over current-under current, brown-down, or d/c contaminated flows, and stable voltages.

      Also, new mini-split systems allow for a combination of ducted air flows, ceiling mounted cassette installations that have 4 directional as well as lateral, sweeping air flows that are totally superior to conventional, ducted systems.

      Installation of Mini-split systems must be performed by certified, educated, installers that stricthly adhere to manufacturer required parameters for nitrogen brazing of line-sets ; pressure testing of the new line sets after brazing ; and pulling the mandatory 300-500 micron vacuums. Furthermore, mini splits require voltage-power sources that are provide clean (i.e., noise D/C filtered current & voltage flows), consistent voltages. And the condensate lines must be properly sized, insulated, and routed to dispose of the large amounts of condensate these units can generate, as they do here in New Orleans. Here in New Orleans, we have the highest mean humidity of 74.2%. Mitsubishi Mini-splits have a built in, dehumidification mode that works excellently. Also, they systems require diligent maintenance to keep their static electric air filters and coils clean.

      We have sold /serviced literally every mini-split of major manufacturers and found Mitsubishi to be the best. Mini-split technology is light years ahead of old split systems… so much so that ALL the major manufacturers of standard ducted systems are now offering D/C full variable speed condensers and ECM-Varispeed blowers… All of which are based upon mini-split technologies.

      If you had / have problems with a mini-split it is probably because: 1) it was installed by someone that did NOT use nitrogen brazing, 2) they did not pull a proper 300-500 micron vacuum 3) the unit is not cleaned twice a year 4) or you used a company other than Mitsubishi which is the industry leader.

      For questions please email or call us at 504 444-2233 for more information

  6. Renting 1200 sf on a bay. Owner installed two mini split units to lower heating cost but my electric bill jumped from $77 to $133 from Oct to Nov. The unit in the living room is set for 70 and the actual temp is 64-65. Does that seem right? Owner has had installers back twice & they’re not happy with the complaints so I’m not convinced they can or will fix this if there really is a problem with the system.

    • Replying with update to my own post:
      My electric bill continued to rise to $176 and the ambient temperature continued to fall to as low as 59, with no change to the mini-split setting at 70 degrees.
      On December 31, I turned off the mini-split and began using only the Monitor-style kerosene heaters in my apartment. I keep the living room and my bedroom at 64 and my spare room at 56. These are comfortable temps for me and my January electric bill is $63.
      I hope the mini-split proves useful for A/C in the summer, but I have no intention of turning it on for heating. For me, these units either are defective anomalies or they are rip-offs.

      • IDK; i had 5 minisplits installed june 2017. I have used a couple of them for additional heats sources in some of my rooms; not all but some more than others – like the TV room. I checked and my Nov vs Dec 2017 electric bills only went up roughly 73 KW. Based on my calculations it was only $3.00 – $4.00 so I’m fine with that.

        You mentioned the setting and the room not being the same temp. When I pulled the trigger to go with these I was wondering how that worked and I had found (and it made sense) that there was no real expectation that the room would be the temperature I had the remote set for. The remote is not a thermostat; it’s my understanding the unit on the wall has the thermostat. So it probably doesn’t make great sense since heat rises BUT I make sure the heat is moving where I want it – floor, circulating, etc……….and have not had a problem.

        What I did notice here is when it’s really cold outside (Cleveland, OH weather) the unit will make some fairly loud noise – something i wasn’t expecting. I researched it and found its likely a ‘defrost’ mechanism and the units do have high/low operating efficiency parameters so I wasn’t alarmed. And when it’s ‘typical’ cold weather they don’t make but hardly any noise.

        Thing is with these units (which many have said) they are newer in the states. That said, you can find a great installer (as I did) but they don’t have a ton of answers for you regarding how it operates, etc………….they will rely, in my case, on Mitsubishi for the detailed operating answers.

        So, while I can’t say why your bill has hopped up as much as I did; I’ve not had the same experience – yet maybe.

  7. We have a 1921 raised Craftsmen 3/2 (over a full daylight basement) in NE Florida. A crazy package unit was installed 30+ years ago and has finally died. Yay! Never really worked and super high electricity bills. I detest the ductwork in my unconditioned attic. And I have a basement. Footprint is 1650 sf. We have and use the original whole house fan to exchange warmed or cooled air whenever appropriate. Love that!
    We feel we see a clear way to add ductless mini splits without hacking up our house in an unsightly way. We should also be able to run line sets and drains through the basement ceiling joists to minimize the external line set runs. And we have plenty of choices to locate the compressor.
    Our problem is, EVERY technician who come to talk new system/duct design, can only see doing a ducted system in my unconditioned attic. Even ducted mini splits they want to put in my attic and cut 20 X 20 returns in my coffered ceilings! Yikes. And, um no.
    I wonder if I am just way off with the equipment limitations or just not finding a creative installer. When I mentioned to the last Tech that we would rather cut a return and vents in the floor vs. the ceiling, and place the ducted mini split in the semi conditioned basement, he said he would refuse because we have hardwood floors. I asked about floor/wall mount type, and he squashed the discussion saying they were crazy expensive.
    This is so hard to find a right fit. Where’s the dating style app where we can be matched up with a seemingly bets fit.
    Thanks for listening.

    • I installed a three zone pioneer mini split and i could not be happier with the unite. I went with wall mount Units. Old central air systems are just to inefficient just look at there seer ratings.

  8. We had the Mitsubishi split system. As far as the looks on the exteriorthat was handled by using the cover up system. Not only did it cover the lines and condensate lines, it also added additional coverage and snow additional air barrier to prevent heat or cooling losses . The structure was vinyl , easily painted to match the exterior color of the home.
    Now, as to the heating and cooling, there were differences. Partof our home is shaded, the back half is south facing and unshaded. The front section was ALWAYS either hotter or colder than the southern facing back half. The mini split system allowed us to keep each section at a desired temp. In those areas that were not being utilized we could either cut off or set the temps to keep their se rooms from being cooled or heated, that alone caused a decrease in our heating and cooling bills. Using the ductless system has lowered our energy cost quite a bit. Our original system prior to hurricaine Katrina was a seer 18 central unit. With the ductless system our energy bills have dropped by 20% and the cost for a 4 zone plus a single zone wound up costing 25% more than replacing the central unit and new duct work. Another plus is the fact that the compressor units were lighter and able to be placed above the foundation easily which prevented further flood damage with other storms. Many neighbors have had to replace their out side units due to the salt water submersion of the units and their duct work ( those with the duct work under their homes ) either cleaned and rewrapped with insulation or replaced.) so not all of the ” facts ” that were used to rebut the myths were accurate. With the multizone systems , using the exterior covering for the tubing and condensate tubing, you can also add additional insulation to also combat heat or cooling loss. Secondly using a heat pump allows you to utilize the heat or cold difference in other rooms to off set temp differences in other rooms as well.

  9. I have a small cape cod house, a little under 1300 square feet. Our HVAC system is on its last legs. Our windows are too narrow for any window air conditioner to supplement for upstairs, so right now we use a couple portable units that are bulky awkward and horrible.

    I have been told that a really large new HVAC would do the whole house, but the problem is that if I want my upstairs at 70 in the summer, we will have to have it at 50 or lower downstairs. Reverse that in the winter for heat. If I want to set my upstairs at 60, the downstairs will be 80.

    Right now we’re exploring options. It was suggested a new HVAC and a split ductless for upstairs. But that sounds like it’s going to be very expensive.

    Any thoughts, suggestions, ideas on costs? (Vague ballparks are fine) Any help to guide us through the process would be helpful. But we have to do something soon. The HVAC is on its last legs.

    • hola Cindy,
      Before moving to Mexico, we had a large older home in the
      South with two ducted A/C units. One for upstairs and of course
      the other for downstairs. The ceilings both up and down were 12′
      with 10 feet’ windows and doors. This old house leaked like a sieve.
      No matter what I had the two units set at, we couldn’t sleep upstairs because
      of the heat, until I replaced the light fixture at the top of the stairs with a ceiling fan. Amazing? You bet, but it changed the temperature to 72*. I don’t know if this will work for you but it did for us. Also we had 6 ceiling
      fans throughout the house. With A/C and the fans we were very comfortable
      even in 105* with 90% humidity. Good luck to you and your house decisions.
      Connie

  10. Would love some advice! We are building a three-story 3,200sqft home in Rhode Island and are considering using ductless mini-splits for all heating and cooling. Very new to ductless but it’s been recommended by friends that we consider it due to efficiency and ease of maintenance.

    My questions are:
    (1) Each room requires a separate head but what about bathrooms? Are separate heads required?
    (2) What can I expect to pay for heating the home?
    (3) Is it possible to combine/control multiple heads on a single thermostat so that we don’t have to run around the house and turn them all on/off individually?
    (4) We have been told that Mitsubishi makes the best systems. Is this correct?
    (5) We will have natural gas to the home as well. Does it make sense to also have a zoned baseboard hotwater system for heat (for cost savings) in addition to the ductless units for A/C (and supplemental heat)

    Thank you in advance for any help!!!

    • Before I give thoughts/opinions, please know I’m just a homeowner who just had Mitsubishi mini splits installed in my 100 year old home in June 2017.
      – Bathrooms – I say either yes, you need something or……..assuming the bathroom door is open most of the time the cool air will make it’s way in there. For example; I have an ensuite in the master bedroom and the ‘head’ is in the bedroom, not the bathroom. It’s not as ‘chilly’ in the bathroom but very comfortable. My guest bath…..same thing……..it’s off a hallway and guest bedroom and while it doesn’t have it’s own ‘head’ its fine. Same goes for power room on first floor. Now if someone is going to spend hours in there with the door closed – maybe another story. I’ve had zero issues. (placement of the units is important as well and why you need a good contractor.)
      – Heating – I can’t respond, I’ve not had to use them for heat yet
      – Single thermostat to control all – so it’s my understanding that with mini splits that option doesn’t exist. At least it doesn’t with the Mitsubishi mini splits. Funny you mention running around to turn them on/off. Shortly after I had them installed i found myself doing that ‘just to see’ how cool one or two units would keep the living space. Then i thought ‘i’m gonna leave everything run to see what it does to my electric bill.’ As a point of reference, my electric bill running 5 ‘heads’ from two out door ‘compressors’ was maybe only $45 more in 2017 for the same period as it was in 2016. (I used window unit ac prior to my install). So, unless your closing a door to a bedroom or something that isn’t being used you might just wanna let them run to see what your literal and figurative comfort level is. But……….the whole ‘zoning’ thing was one of the selling points of the mini splits for me. That said; there is no single thermostat. Otherwise, you couldn’t control the climate of each living space
      – Mitsubishi the best – I hope so since it’s what I spent $22 grand having installed. But time will tell. Sounds like you are finding out it’s hard to find tons of info on this technology. That was my dilemma as well and why when i found this ‘blog’ is started documenting my experience. To try and help others who were in the same boat as me. The warranty is great through btw.
      – Should you install zoned baseboard heat as back up? I can’t directly answer this because my house had hot water heat throughout so I’m covered. I plan on using the Mitsubishis as supplemental heat (if needed and probably won’t need) as your thinking of using hot water as supplemental.

      Gosh………exciting time for you. Hope this answers some of your questions. Tough stuff………..the concept is relatively new in the U.S. and not tons of info. But i’ll say this ‘from a cooling perspective, I’ve lived through my first complete summer with ‘central air’ and i’m in love.

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