Four Myths About Ductless Mini-Splits

Mini split in room near ceiling

Understanding the Pros & Cons of Ductless Mini-Split AC Systems

Over the past few years we have all observed the U.S. HVAC industry’s fascination with ductless “mini-split” air conditioning systems in the U.S. Recent HVAC trade shows have been crowded with OEM’s promoting this “new” way of providing home comfort. National advertising and media/public relations tactics would make us think it is just a matter of time before we all say goodbye to our central AC systems and get with the rest of the world (i.e. Japan, China and Europe) in the way we keep our homes and businesses cool and comfortable.

The article below was written in 2013. We have updated information for homeowners busting myths about ductless mini split systems, outlining what to consider when choosing a new HVAC system, as well as recommendations on when a ductless system might be right for your space.

The AC & Heating Connect staff has also conducted research on ductless systems and uncovered some facts that might be of interest to contractors and distributors as the industry plans for the future growth of this segment.

Myth #1 – The sales of ductless mini-spit systems continue to grow and will dominate the U.S. market in a few years.

Industry statistics would not support this statement. While the ductless segment has posted impressive growth rates in the U.S. since 2005, the growth rates have been slowing recently and the largest ductless segment (small, single evaporator systems) have not grown at all since 2010. These sales remain stable at about 260,000 units per year, or only about 4% of total unitary AC shipments. Some larger VRF-style commercial systems continue to grow at higher rates, but their numbers in the U.S. remain small at only 28,000 units per year.

Myth #2 – Ductless mini-splits are ideal whole-home HVAC solutions in the U.S.

The current economic facts about ductless simply do not support this claim. The installed costs associated with using mini-splits to cool and heat an average 2,000 square foot home with ductless mini-splits would cost almost three times the cost of simply replacing your central AC system with another ducted system. Even in a home where you had to provide new ductwork for the central system, you could still expect to spend about 50% less on a typical central AC system installation versus the more expensive ductless options.

Myth #3 – Ductless mini-splits are more energy efficient because there are no air leaks in the ductwork.

What people who make this claim fail to mention is that in ducted homes, which have poorly installed and leaking air ducts, the conditioned air is probably leaking out of the ductwork but it is going into the conditioned space somewhere and helping to keep the house cool. In those cases the cooling energy is really not lost to the homeowner. While mini-splits don’t have duct losses, they do have other losses. Instead of distributing conditioned air throughout the home, mini-splits distribute refrigerant. In many cases these refrigerant lines are run outside the conditioned space and in these cases there are thermal losses associated with energy transferring from those lines to the space outside the home. A legitimate energy loss occurs when you are heating or cooling your backyard with mini-split refrigerant lines (see photo below). Duct leaks that leak into the conditioned space are not really losses at all unless they escape to an unconditioned space. The other claim made by mini-split advocates is that they provide energy saving due to “zoning” or shutting off energy use in unoccupied rooms. What they fail to mention is there are other modern methods to zone off rooms besides using ductless methods. There are many ways to achieve zoning.

*Discover the updated status of this myth here.

Myth #4 – Ductless mini-splits provide superior comfort and quality of life.

The problems with ductless cooling are not well understood by many U.S. consumers since they are relatively new to this region. The typical comfort experience with mini-split systems could provide a real challenge for American consumers who are used to central AC systems with good airflow exchange, filtration and humidity control. Cold and hot spots are also common with ductless systems due to the spacing of the indoor units. In addition, there are concerns about US homeowners’ reaction to the aesthetic and architectural impact of having air conditioning systems hanging on several interior walls and having refrigerant lines running to various rooms on the sides of their homes. Before installing a ductless system with multiple evaporating units it might be good to show your customer some photographs of some of your previous mini-split installations so they have proper expectations.

*Discover the updated status of this myth here.

The Bottom Line on Ductless Mini-Split Systems

Ductless mini-split systems are ideal for spot cooling situations in homes and businesses where ductwork is either not available or difficult to install. It is important for contractors to have these systems in their portfolio of HVAC solutions for certain situations and learning where and when to recommend them is essential. Knowing the facts associated with these new systems is also essential to avoiding problems when customers are surprised by the many “myths” about this technology.

The myths in this article have been reevaluated. You can find the updated article here.

What has your experience been with ductless mini-splits? Leave us a comment below!

A typical indoor wall-mounted, evaporating unit – usually one per room are required to minimize hot and cold spots.

A typical U.S. style home is shown here with a retrofit mini-split system. Notice the exterior line sets and condensate drains. Thermal losses could be expected from the vertical, external refrigerant lines and these might cause the system to have trouble keeping up on really hot days. Also, notice that the window-room air conditioners have not yet been removed. A close up photo of the house above, showing the external refrigerant lines and a condensate drain line. Ductless mini-split systems are often used to cool room additions as shown here in the garage area. A large, high rise apartment building is shown, using many mini-split systems – one or more per apartment.A large, urban apartment building is shown, using mini-split systems – one or more per apartment.

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538 thoughts on “Four Myths About Ductless Mini-Splits

  1. Hi Lindsy – we talked about this a bit here but could not come up with any obvious suggestions. In addition to the expansion and contraction of the materials we thought there could be an overload resetting, or a relay or some other switch chattering so you could ask your contractor/installer about that. You might also have the contractor try adjusting the position of the unit somehow or maybe put some sort of vibration absorbing material between the unit and the wall to try to reduce or eliminate the sound. These are just a few ideas for you to suggest to the contractor.

    It is difficult to say what sound is or is not normal without actually being on site to hear it. I think it would probably be good for you to keep working with your contactor and the OEM to help resolve this problem. Maybe our other readers have some thoughts?

    • Thanks for your thoughts. I would NOT have bought the unit if I would have known it made the awful clicking sounds. Seems strange that other people with similar units aren’t experiencing the clicking sounds. AARGH
      Am working with the installer and Mitsubishi but they are telling me it’s normal. Double AARGH Not sure anything will be done by either one of them. So frustrating. THANKS again.

      • Hi Lindsy,
        I have a similar unit from Mitsubishi and I can say mine does not click! If it were me I’d be insisting on a replacement.
        One thought though … I originally had the outside unit hanging on the exterior wall but I could feel the vibration so I had it moved to a stand. Much more quite. But it does not sound like this was your issue.

        • I have 3 Mitsubishi wall units and ALL of them make this horrible plastic clicking noise. The installer is accusing me of being crazy, even though I sent them a video clip of it making very loud clicking noises. I did some research of my own and I have found that it seems inherent to the system. Due to temperature changes it cracks and clicks constantly. I never would have purchased this system had I known. It is false advertising. They tout it as “silent.” I honestly can’t live with it and I am considering filing a law suit against the manufacturer.

  2. Early October I asked for suggestions on how to stop our Mitsubishi MSZ-Fh15NA from making excessive clicking noises. I haven’t heard from anyone. How much clicking noise is normal for the expansion of the plastic due to the heat/cold on a ductless?
    Mitsubishi and my installer are saying the noises are normal, I hear constant clicking for 20 minutes once the heating starts……is that normal? Any comments are appreciated,

  3. Thank you so much, Frank, I will get it rolling. I tend to agree with you to keep water heating system and get it repair if necessary. Will try to avoid any type of duct work to keep cost lower regarding the A/C. I have enough time to think about A/C. The major thing is Heating system due to the winter season approaching. Again, thank for your time and insight.

    Andy

  4. A lot of good information, thanks for Frank and everyone. I bought a 1968 old foreclosure house (2700 sqft) in Metro Detroit northern side. It is Bungalow Style. The main entry direct to a large family room (FR). Left hand side of the FR, a Kitchen, a main bedroom with full bathroom, and a small study room, on right hand side, a 2 car garage. above FR, 3 bedrooms & a Full bathroom. The house is heated through a hot water system. It does not have A/C. The heating system is very old. I might run into many problems in the future. My question is 1) should I renovate the hot water system? 2) should I replace it with Ductless mini heating and Cooling, or 3) replace it with traditional ducted center heating and cooling system? what is the cost advantage?

    • Hi Andy – here are a few thoughts and things to consider. I have hot water (“hydronic”) heat in my home and I like it very much. It was not often installed in homes this far west (Ohio-Michigan) but this heat is very common in the eastern states. However, many people now are actually installing new hot water heaters in new homes today in the Midwest and it is viewed by some as being a superior heating approach to gas forced air due to using radiators instead of gas furnaces which provide blasts of hot, dry air – which tend to dry out the air in the home and also cause temperature fluctuations during the cycles.

      I also had a very old boiler and decided to replace it a few years ago. There are a lot of new replacement boilers and tank-less heaters on the market and some can be very efficient and will take up a lot less space than your old boiler system. You have to shop for a good contractor who specializes in boilers though. All HVAC contractors do not work on hot water systems so you need to call around.

      In summary, I would not remove your hydronic heating system – just consider replacing and upgrading the boiler and pump and maybe the controls if needed. I am a big fan of hydonic though so don’t be surprised if others weigh in here.

      On to cooling – I had the exact same problem with my home – an old boiler and no AC. I did not want to use window units for various reasons and had no ductwork. I got quotes on multi-head mini-splits to cool the whole house (2600’) but it was pretty expensive. I shopped around and finally found a contractor who had an idea of putting the air handler in my unfinished attic and dropping ductwork to the first floor through each of 3-4 closets and interior walls and on the second floor we used flex ducts running in the attic. I gave up some much valued closet space (typical in a 1920’s era home) but got central AC to the whole house at a fraction of the cost for multi-head mini-splits. Some people would say I gave up a lot of energy savings from not being able to zone off rooms, etc with the individual heads on the mini-splits but I did buy a two capacity system that offers very high efficiency and also allows me to shut off the kids’ rooms while they are away at college, etc.

      If I had the chance to do it over the only thing I would have changed would be to buy a heat pump so I would get the high efficiency advantage of an electric powered heat pump in the fall and winter and could delay turning on my gas boiler until the middle of the cold season and turning if off earlier in the spring – probably would have saved even more on energy with this approach and also would have gained some ability to shift from gas to electric and back depending on how the utility companies were pricing. You will need a thermostat that manages both heating and cooling with this approach. I have a wireless stat that works well.

      Back to mini-splits – if AC is not that big of a deal to you due to the short cooling season and cool summers in MI. You can consider adding mini-split heat pumps to a few key rooms which might get you through the summers up there and also give you the heat pump benefits in the fall and winter in those rooms. You would still have the whole home boiler heating solution during the coldest part of the winter which is critical for you in that area. If you do this you will need to be careful with the placement and setting of your boiler thermostat to compensate for the heating provided by the mini-split heat pumps which will be on separate controls for each indoor unit. This is not difficult to manage but you and your contractor should be aware of it and discuss it.

      There were a few posted questions last week on issues with using heat pumps in cold ambient climates like MI so you might take a look at those. Running heat pumps above 15-20F can be very efficient heating but below that there are issues with a drop off in both efficiency and capacity.

      One other thought I had was since your floor plan is basically zoned left and right you should probably take that into consideration with either the mini-split or the ducted approach. Some people with layouts like this go with two smaller, ducted or ductless systems rather than one large one. This could also help with the complications of running long sections of ductwork (or refrigerant lines for ductless) across the length of the house.

      In any case, we recommend getting 2-3 quotes from different contractors before deciding. In your case (as was with my case) you may need even more quotes since the contractor who can figure out your boiler replacement may not know much about running ductwork through a closet and neither may know much about mini-splits. You might end up with a boiler contractor and a good AC contractor for either the ducted system or the mini-splits. I hope this helps. Good luck with your HVAC project!

  5. I am converting a storage room into a small eating area. It adjoins a room that also has no heat or cooling but contains a freezer that would probably apprecitate some cooler air in the summer. . Both rooms are a 25 feet away from the nearest central ac duct. Would you recommend a window unit or a split system or could I expect enough cool air if I ran a couple of flex ducts from my existing system.

    • HI Steve. If you try running insulated flex duct to the space your system will have to run longer to cool your whole home which is not always bad – except on the hottest days. On those days (and some nights depending on your location) the additional load will cause the rooms that are the longest distance from the air handler and coil to be warmer as the system might not keep up. Basically, the thermostat will reach the set point temperature when the area near the t-stat reaches temperature but if the longest runs have not received enough cool air they will be warmer – maybe a lot warmer. If these more distant rooms are places where you spend a lot of time when it is really hot outside (e.g. bedrooms?) then you will have to set the thermostat lower to get it to a comfortable temperature in these spaces and this uses more energy. If the rooms you are considering adding are the most remote rooms then this might end up working with just adding the ductwork. If not, you might be better off just using a window unit or a mini-split system (which allows you to keep using your window) for this space.

      A certified HVAC contractor can inspect this space and do some calculations to determine if your current AC system has enough capacity to meet the needs of this extra load (cooled space) and can discuss the potential impact to the more remote rooms in your home. If your system is older, you might also consider upgrading to a system that is sized properly for this new load and you might also get the benefits of recent increases in the energy efficiencies available with new systems or even consider a heat pump or dual fuel system. Our recent homeowner survey suggests that most people replace their systems when they are 14 to 16 years old (or longer if seasonal runtimes are shorter) so that might help you decide whether to consider a new system.

      We usually recommend getting 2-3 quotes from certified contractors before deciding this as they can advise you how much longer you can expect to run your current system. If you add another system to that space and then have to replace your existing system in a few years it probably would have been better to just get the new system now – unless you really want that new space to be on its own system with its own temperature control. I hope this helps to answer some of your questions. Good luck with your HVAC project!

  6. Frank, This is a nice article. We live in north shore of boston and I have a condo-town house that is 1380 sqft (including basement) and has no ducts (no existing ducts). We have electric baseboards everywhere and our electric bill for heating the house is way too high in winter. If we had to do a duck work for the gas, it is probably about 20K and ripping the whole house apart to run the copper lines all over. We had a HVAC Contractor visit our house for Mitsubhisi ductless mini split and the quote is around 15k with some rebate from Mass Save lowering down the cost to a total of 13k for the Installation work.He claims that the quote is for a hybrid 4 head mini split heating system. Do you think we can go for a ductless mini split to warm the house cheaply in an area like boston even when it is around below zero outside or would I just end up using the electric baseboard heaters and high electricity bills?Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide!

    • Hi Prasad – There have been a few posts on this article recently that deal with the problems of using heat pumps as the only source of heat in a northern climate where temperatures frequently get below 15 to 20F. Rather than repeat that content I suggest reading some of those posts and replies. Basically, the efficiency benefit from heat pumps and the capacity (ability to provide hot air) drops off dramatically with a decline in the ambient temperature. HP’s are great for temperatures above that range though so they (both ducted and ductless heat pumps) are popular in the south. Some people in the upper Midwest have also been using heat pumps along with traditional heaters (gas furnaces and boilers) to take advantage of HP efficiency in the fall and spring seasons but keep their old heaters for the coldest periods.

      If you go with mini-split heat pumps you will probably see energy savings for most of the year but not so much when it gets really cold. We recommend getting 2-3 quotes from various contractors for both ducted and ductless systems because sometimes there are cost saving ideas associated with how they run the refrigerant lines or the new ductwork in homes that don’t have pre-existing ductwork. Equipment prices also vary from region to region and from business to business so it pays to shop.

      Some other ideas we have also heard of in situations like yours include a “hybrid” approach which might feature a single ducted heat pump for one part of the house that is easy to reach with new ductwork (either through the attic or basement) and also adding one or more mini-split heat pumps for the rest. In any case, you might want to keep your existing heaters for a couple of winters to make sure you have enough heating capacity installed. You can remove them later if you don’t need them.

      One other point I will pass on about heat pumps in places like Boston. Whether it is a mini-split or a ducted HP make sure the contractor mounts the outdoor units such that they will not get buried by deep snow. If it becomes buried in snow (or anything else for that matter – like leaves or debris, etc.) , the flow of air is restricted and it will not operate well and might cause reliability problems if it is left like that for a long time. Considering the winter the people of Boston had last year I thought I would mention this as something to discuss with your contractor/installer. Good luck with your HVAC project!

  7. Thank you for the article, and the comments. All interesting. My dilemma is that while I have forced air for my home in the LA beach area, apparently the ducts are undersized to support central air conditioning. I’m seeing a lot of questions on this thread from people in the LA area since AC was just never necessary near the beach cities: it was never that hot. The last couple of years have been different, and this year has been unbearable.

    So — I have a 2800 sq. ft. 2.5 level house with 10 inch ducts. It’s set up for multi-zone with 3 ducts originating at the furnace: one for each level.

    I’ve had a couple of contractors come in and look at my setup, and all have agreed that the ducts are undersized for a 5 ton systems (no one has actually done the calculations yet). The last contractor was the one who suggested the mini-split setup for my house.

    I understand the concept and benefit, bit going down this route scares me a bit between pulling 240 across the house to the intrusive panels.

    I am wondering if you had any thoughts? Even with the increased heat we’re seeing in the area, I don’t expect excessive AC usage, so efficiency is not my #1 priority. However, I do need to get the house cooled about 15-20 degrees as we’ve broken 90 degrees inside the home a few days.

    Thanks

    • Hi Ted – Here are a few thoughts on your situation. First of all, if the only problem you have is the sizing of existing ductwork there are some ways this can be addressed (e.g. by adding additional flexible delivery ducts, etc.,). However, there might be other problems with your system which might be keeping it from keeping up with your cooling demands on the hottest days and there are certain load calculations (ACCA manual J) and duct calculations (ACCA manual D) which could probably help a lot in determining the root cause of your HVAC problem. Here is the link to the industry group (ACCA) site which we support. This site should provide information about both these calculations and also has a contractor locator app. https://www.acca.org/home

      If your existing system if newer and running properly (perhaps with improved ducting) but is just not large enough (BTU/hr) to properly match your increased load you could try “adding” one or more ductless mini-splits to some critical areas of your home to deal with the under-capacity of your central AC system. This would also give you the benefit of zoning (and maybe heating if you get a heat pump) in those. However, if your system is older you might be better off just replacing it and getting it all sized right. Our recent survey shows that AC systems are usually replaced after about 14-16 years (or more depending on usage) so that might give you an idea about how much longer your old system will run.

      In any case, we recommend getting 2-3 estimates from qualified contractors to troubleshoot your system and make recommendations – and this should include doing the load and duct calculations. I hope this answers your question. Good luck with your HVAC project!

    • Hi Abe – NYC is definitely in a colder region that requires significant heat during the winter. Boiler heat is a “whole home” heating solution and probably serves multiple individual room, hydronic radiators in your home so you would need to match the total heating capacity (BTU/Hr) provided by your boiler to all the radiators if you were going to totally replace the boiler. So, you would probably need multiple mini-split heat pump units, each with their own indoor unit matching each radiator heat capacity to totally replace your boiler. Rather than replacing old boiler heat systems, some people retain it and add mini-split heat pumps only in certain rooms within the home to provide AC to those spaces in the summer and to provide some additional heating benefits in the fall and spring when it is cool but not cold. Most heat pump systems are not very efficient with delivering hot air when temperatures get below 15F so, depending on which system you used, on the coldest days you would probably spend less energy and be more comfortable with your boiler, especially if cost of natural gas and fuel oil remains low. Heat pumps can be very efficient when the outdoor ambient is above 40 degrees but when it is really cold outside there is just not enough heat energy in the outdoor air to move inside to keep the space warm. The result is that your heat pump will probably run on less efficient, back up auxiliary resistance heaters (if available with the heat pump indoor unit). In any case, we recommend getting two or three estimates from different contractors to make sure your heat pump additions or replacements are sized properly for both your heating and cooling needs throughout the year. I hope this helps to answer your question. Thanks for visiting our site!

  8. My husband and I had a Mitsubishi MSZ-Fh15NA installed on August 21, 2015. The unit makes a clicking type noise every 1-3 minutes. We had the installer come in and he sprayed dry lubricate in the unit but the clicking noise continues. He said Mitsubishi says this noise is normal. He states it’s the heat/cool expansion. I have several friends with ductless heat/cool units they do NOT have the clicking going on and never did hear any noise. Installer said the noise should stop in 6 months. REALLY????? The clicking is quite annoying. I bought it due to the marketing of being so quiet. NOT MY UNIT, I like the heat but the noise is drying me crazy. Any suggestions?

  9. I had a mini-split installed into out master bedroom two weeks ago. I have never slept so comfortable. Living in South Florida can be very uncomfortable without proper a/c. We moved into a new home and had this installed. As I sit here, they are installing a second in my adult sons room. We love it. Had both installed for a total of $3,000

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