Four Myths About Ductless Mini-Splits

Mini split in room near ceiling

Understanding the Pros & Cons of Ductless Mini-Split AC Systems

Over the past few years we have all observed the U.S. HVAC industry’s fascination with ductless “mini-split” air conditioning systems in the U.S. Recent HVAC trade shows have been crowded with OEM’s promoting this “new” way of providing home comfort. National advertising and media/public relations tactics would make us think it is just a matter of time before we all say goodbye to our central AC systems and get with the rest of the world (i.e. Japan, China and Europe) in the way we keep our homes and businesses cool and comfortable.

The article below was written in 2013. We have updated information for homeowners busting myths about ductless mini split systems, outlining what to consider when choosing a new HVAC system, as well as recommendations on when a ductless system might be right for your space.

The AC & Heating Connect staff has also conducted research on ductless systems and uncovered some facts that might be of interest to contractors and distributors as the industry plans for the future growth of this segment.

Myth #1 – The sales of ductless mini-spit systems continue to grow and will dominate the U.S. market in a few years.

Industry statistics would not support this statement. While the ductless segment has posted impressive growth rates in the U.S. since 2005, the growth rates have been slowing recently and the largest ductless segment (small, single evaporator systems) have not grown at all since 2010. These sales remain stable at about 260,000 units per year, or only about 4% of total unitary AC shipments. Some larger VRF-style commercial systems continue to grow at higher rates, but their numbers in the U.S. remain small at only 28,000 units per year.

Myth #2 – Ductless mini-splits are ideal whole-home HVAC solutions in the U.S.

The current economic facts about ductless simply do not support this claim. The installed costs associated with using mini-splits to cool and heat an average 2,000 square foot home with ductless mini-splits would cost almost three times the cost of simply replacing your central AC system with another ducted system. Even in a home where you had to provide new ductwork for the central system, you could still expect to spend about 50% less on a typical central AC system installation versus the more expensive ductless options.

Myth #3 – Ductless mini-splits are more energy efficient because there are no air leaks in the ductwork.

What people who make this claim fail to mention is that in ducted homes, which have poorly installed and leaking air ducts, the conditioned air is probably leaking out of the ductwork but it is going into the conditioned space somewhere and helping to keep the house cool. In those cases the cooling energy is really not lost to the homeowner. While mini-splits don’t have duct losses, they do have other losses. Instead of distributing conditioned air throughout the home, mini-splits distribute refrigerant. In many cases these refrigerant lines are run outside the conditioned space and in these cases there are thermal losses associated with energy transferring from those lines to the space outside the home. A legitimate energy loss occurs when you are heating or cooling your backyard with mini-split refrigerant lines (see photo below). Duct leaks that leak into the conditioned space are not really losses at all unless they escape to an unconditioned space. The other claim made by mini-split advocates is that they provide energy saving due to “zoning” or shutting off energy use in unoccupied rooms. What they fail to mention is there are other modern methods to zone off rooms besides using ductless methods. There are many ways to achieve zoning.

*Discover the updated status of this myth here.

Myth #4 – Ductless mini-splits provide superior comfort and quality of life.

The problems with ductless cooling are not well understood by many U.S. consumers since they are relatively new to this region. The typical comfort experience with mini-split systems could provide a real challenge for American consumers who are used to central AC systems with good airflow exchange, filtration and humidity control. Cold and hot spots are also common with ductless systems due to the spacing of the indoor units. In addition, there are concerns about US homeowners’ reaction to the aesthetic and architectural impact of having air conditioning systems hanging on several interior walls and having refrigerant lines running to various rooms on the sides of their homes. Before installing a ductless system with multiple evaporating units it might be good to show your customer some photographs of some of your previous mini-split installations so they have proper expectations.

*Discover the updated status of this myth here.

The Bottom Line on Ductless Mini-Split Systems

Ductless mini-split systems are ideal for spot cooling situations in homes and businesses where ductwork is either not available or difficult to install. It is important for contractors to have these systems in their portfolio of HVAC solutions for certain situations and learning where and when to recommend them is essential. Knowing the facts associated with these new systems is also essential to avoiding problems when customers are surprised by the many “myths” about this technology.

The myths in this article have been reevaluated. You can find the updated article here.

What has your experience been with ductless mini-splits? Leave us a comment below!

A typical indoor wall-mounted, evaporating unit – usually one per room are required to minimize hot and cold spots.

A typical U.S. style home is shown here with a retrofit mini-split system. Notice the exterior line sets and condensate drains. Thermal losses could be expected from the vertical, external refrigerant lines and these might cause the system to have trouble keeping up on really hot days. Also, notice that the window-room air conditioners have not yet been removed. A close up photo of the house above, showing the external refrigerant lines and a condensate drain line. Ductless mini-split systems are often used to cool room additions as shown here in the garage area. A large, high rise apartment building is shown, using many mini-split systems – one or more per apartment.A large, urban apartment building is shown, using mini-split systems – one or more per apartment.

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538 thoughts on “Four Myths About Ductless Mini-Splits

  1. Would a mini split system be a good fit for a 2 bedroom 800 Sq foot condo? The current HVAC system sounds like a 747 jumbo jet taking off in the living room. Are the mini systems quieter?

  2. I’m glad I found this page for POVs that are not “commission-based”! I have some experience with ductless from a prior house that had a combo of ducted CAC plus a Mitsu Mr Slim in one upstairs area (approx 600 sf) to which ducts could not be run. The Mitsu did a great job of cooling that room with the door closed.

    My next house will be a high-ranch (aka raised ranch) with about 1000 sf on the ground level (slab on grade) and another 1000 sf on the upper floor. Because the downstairs rooms will be rarely used I’m not planning to use AC there at all. The upstairs has a livingroom, dining room and kitchen all open to each other; the other end of the upstairs has 3 bedrooms but only 1 will be used as a bedroom — the other 2 will be converted into a very large closet plus a computer room. I don’t need or want cooling in the closet room or bathrooms. The bedrooms are small (the largest is only 120 sf and that’s the bedroom) and I absolutely don’t want a wall-unit minisplit — hate the look of them, honestly. And even the quietest models are too loud for me (I’m used to the silence of the ducted systems).

    I’ve asked two different HVAC companies why I could not simply install a single 18,000 or 20,000 BTU wall unit on whatever living room wall points toward the bedroom hallway (or else two smaller units, one in the bedroom hallway and the other in the living/dining room area). They all said “mini splits aren’t designed to work that way, you need one in every room that has to be cooled”. Truth? or selling tactic??

    There are only 3 rooms that I care about cooling, and in my climate the AC season is mid-June through at most mid-Sept (more likely to be just June/July/August):
    (1) bedroom, from 9pm to 9 am
    (2) computer room, whenever I am actually in there (an hour or two now and again during the day; never at night)
    (3) the living room/kitchen area, 6pm to midnight

    Cooling the rest of the house is a waste of $, frankly.

    I was thinking about having one of the ceiling-mounted options (“cassettes” they seem to be called) in just the bedroom, computer room, living room and kitchen,and having them each on a separate thermostat to be used only when needed. But those are ducted options, aren’t they? And if they are ducted, then where are the returns? I was also told by the HVAC companies that this would be a “waste of money” and “wouldn’t work properly”. :-/

    Thanks for any advice from a non-sales point of view! 🙂

    • Hi Marylin – First of all, thanks for your positive comments about our site – we appreciate hearing that!

      Here are a few thoughts.

      Mini-split “cassettes” are ductless. The air returns are built into the indoor unit that goes in the ceiling.

      One issue that contractors might be concerned about when using ductless mini-splits in your space is air flow between rooms. Most residential ductless systems are designed for a predetermined space, like a room. Even if a larger space is open to it, the air flow may not reach all areas of a large space and there is usually no provision for sharing air flow among the spaces with fans or other approaches

      Another issue they might be concerned about is providing adequate air flow (filtration, make-up air, humidity control, etc) to the spaces you are not planning for air conditioning. Having spaces with no HVAC will experience both temperature and humidity fluctuations and might become stagnant during times when windows are closed.

      One approach you might want to consider is using a conventional ducted system with variable capacity. Most 16 SEER or higher systems have at least two steps of capacity along with a variable speed indoor blower (fan coil) for whole house air circulation.

      Since you are wanting to zone off significant areas within your home, you could do this with zoning management damper systems or you could just manually shut off the vents in the rooms you do not want to cool. The capacity modulation feature within your new system will be able to “step down” to meet the reduced demand from the smaller space. If, at some point in the future or on really hot days you might want to cool those other spaces and the system could “step up” to cool the whole house under those scenarios.

      You also did not mention whether this home has existing ductwork but if you already have ductwork this solution might provide some lower cost options. The low stage air flow on two-step and variable capacity systems is also really quiet (e.g. at night when trying to sleep).

      We encourage consumers to get multiple quotes for both ducted and ductless systems to make sure you are satisfied with your new system. Whether you go with a ductless or a ducted system (or a combination of both) it is really important for you and your contractor to discuss what capacity (how many BTU/H) you need. You should both agree on the overall cooling (and heating) needs for your space so you can avoid being short on extreme days and also keep the air moving and humidity low on more moderate days.

      You might also want to consider the resale value of your home in the future. If a potential buyer is not familiar with ductless systems and wants more air conditioning in the lower level and other rooms they might be less interested in buying your home. Keep in mind that HVAC investments are long term investments and involve long term commitments.

      I hope you find this information helpful. Good luck with your HVAC project!

      • Hi Frank, Thanks so much for your insights! Actually I’ve had the variable speed high-SEER Carrier ducted systems in my last 2 houses and I agree, they are great units. Both houses were colonials and so I had a separate system (compressor/air handler/filter/thermostat/ductwork) for each.

        The problems I’m facing now are issues of health and cost. The prior owners of the house I’m buying had cats and the previous ones had dogs — existing CAC dates from the dog owners — and I have severe allergies to the proteins from both. I’ve learned through experience that duct cleaning is useless and that I need to remove the entire old system, including ducts and all equipment, and replace with new. Unfortunately for a job like that, even if doing just the upper floor, I’d be looking at a $15K job minimum. As a senior on a fixed income, I can’t justify that kind of expense for something that I will probably use for a total of 60 days out of 365. Also, allergy-wise a non-ducted system is far preferable to anything with ducts. The house actually has forced hot air gas heat which I’m going to have to convert to gas boiler/baseboard for this reason.

        I do understand the dilemma about conditioned/un-conditioned rooms and spaces, but that brings up another question: What about all the houses that have window or through-the-wall air conditioners in only certain rooms? For example, in the family room and the master bedroom only? Although that isn’t something I’d want — for one thing I could never sleep in a room that had a window AC running — does that mean the same problems of air movement, humidity, etc exist in that scenario? It seems to be the same premise (individual units with their own integral return and delivery system) as having cassette mini-split units only in certain rooms.

        As a senior with mobility issues it wouldn’t be practical for me to have a system in which I had to get up on ladders to manually shut off or adjust vents in various rooms; basically I need something that can be controlled with a wall unit or remote.

        Not worried about resale value, as this will definitely be my last house — dealing with the next owner will be someone else’s problem, not mine, LOL.

        On reflection, if an unconditioned lower level (cool air sinks, hot rises) would be a major problem, I would be okay with putting one of the wall-hung units (a la Mr Slim) in that area, because it will be rarely used. It’s just an open area, a storage room, a half bath, and a laundry room. I just don’t want a big ugly wall unit in the part of the house that I use constantly. A unit down there could just be set to “dry” rather than cool.

        • Marilyn – in answer to your question, window AC units and through the wall units all usually have the same challenges with extended air flow and filtration in large spaces. On the topic of duct cleaning, I have never tried those services since I have a large air filter in the system which seems to take care of any dust or debris. You might talk with your contractor about other methods for air flow, filtration and humidity reduction like ceiling fans, dehumidifiers and stand alone air filters. Again, good luck with your HVAC project.

  3. I am sorry but the charter for this site does not allow us to recommend specific brands or providers at this time. Thanks for visiting the site though and good luck with your HVAC project!

  4. Does anyone know the best mini splits for the money…I’m getting a quote of 10k for 3 zone mitsubishi but that is just to much so I need one not as expensive as mitsubishi but is still great quality. …any suggestions with Daikin. ..Fujitsu or carrier…

  5. I am so glad found this website,
    We live at S. California, summer is kind hot. I have house about 1500 square FT, with two story. The temperature between up and down at least 4 degree different. If we want upstairs comfortable , then downstairs will be too cold, think of put a 9000BTU split unit for upstairs , but worry about the tubing will running too long from ground to upstairs lost the effeciancy of the unit.
    What do you think of this ?
    Thank you so much have this website!

    • If I understand your approach, you are adding a ductless minisplit to the upstairs to augment your central system. By doing this, you will essentially have two zones which will allow you to keep temp higher downstairs when you are upstairs and don’t need it that cool downstairs but want it cooler upstairs. This might work but I would still have a contractor evaluate the required capacity and airflow in both spaces before selecting the unit to make sure it is sized right. On the lines, talk to the contractor about insulating the lines properly and maybe enclosing them somehow to keep it from deteriorating over time. We also recommend getting quotes from several contractors and also, if your system is older you might want to ask about other zoning options to compare before you decide. Sometimes they can come up with unique solutions after talking with you.

      • Does anyone know the best mini splits for the money…I’m getting a quote of 10k for 3 zone mitsubishi but that is just to much so I need one not as expensive as mitsubishi but is still great quality. …any suggestions with Daikin. ..Fujitsu or carrier…

    • One other suggestion I forgot to mention- if you use minisplits make sure you know where the condensate lines are that take the moisture of the indoor coil unit (on the wall) and make sure they are kept clean and not clogged up or water might overflow below the unit. Again you might consider just adjusting or closing your vents downstairs to get more airflow upstairs at night. That might help too. Sorry I forgot to add this earlier. Good luck with your HVAC project!

  6. I have a different scenario than most here. I am looking to cool and heat my detached workshop. This is brand new construction.

    The bottom floor is 1700sqft. It has a few rooms that don’t need cooling. Storage rooms mainly. It nets out to about 1000sqft of space that needs it. The upstairs (eventual office space) is an additional 400sqft. So, essentially what I have is two rooms that are connected by a stairwell. The entire shop has spray foam insulation on the walls and roof line. All the doors are insulated.

    I think a dual zone mini split is the way to go, but I have had two contractors give me quotes for a central heat and air ducted system. The quotes were for 12k and 15k. Way out of my budget! They forget this a shop and does not need to be treated like someone sleeps in there. I just need something t take the edge off and remove humidity from the air.

    I can’t get a straight answer from them. I think they are just afraid of installing ductless. How does essentially two rooms require ducted over ductless? I live in North Texas. We have extreme heat in the summer and get real cold in the winter, but not brutal cold.

    This site has been about as balanced a forum as I have seen.

    Looking forward to your response.

    • Eric – first of all, thanks for your comment about our site being balanced. We strive for that so it is good to hear. On your situation I have a few thoughts about why this might be difficult. Your work space probably has a pretty high ceiling so square footage area rules may not work. Also, air flow in high ceilings can become an issue with any system but this is especially difficult for ductless systems which tend to do better in defined, low ceiling, zoned off rooms in a home or office. The other problem you are probably having might be related to what you mentioned about the need for both heat and cooling. Using heat pumps (either ducted or non-ducted) as the primary heat source in an area that sees temperatures frequently going below 20F will require a lot of backup, auxiliary heating (usually electric resistance heaters) and these can be pretty expensive to operate on really cold days. So, maybe what is going on here is the combined need for both heating and cooling in a fairly large cubic space with no distinct zones other than the 400’ office. In any case, the contractors should do ACCA manual J load calculations to determine how much cooling and heating you need for this space.
      Here are a few suggestions. First of all, you might try getting some quotes from some commercial HVAC contractors or from those who do both residential and commercial. I would also get quotes for ducted and non-ducted solutions, or combinations of both. For example, you could plan to add a ductless mini-split (one evap) to the office area when it is finished but do the rest of the shop with conventional ducted gas heat and AC with a big ceiling fan for airflow. I would also ask them to separate the cooling and heating solutions to make sure the heat pump challenges in your geographic area are not creating the issues. You can get heat pump quotes too but you might be better off with conventional gas heat. If you have not poured the workshop floor yet, you might also consider using hot water, radiant floor heat in that space. I have seen these systems work really well for workshops – they keep the floor warm and the room comfortable but not hot on cold days.

      Good luck with your HVAC project! Hope these suggestions help you find a good solution for your space.

  7. i have a question about going ductless I have a 2400 sf two storey house with central heat/air that’s about 20 years old , I don’t realy care a ac in the basement im more interested in 2nd storey and main floor. If I put a two ton ductless upstairs would cool both floors well or should I put a new 2 ton central ac ?

    • It is really difficult to estimate how much cooling capacity you need for a given space just by knowing the square footage. If you are going to buy a new HVAC system we recommend that you have a contractor do the calculations required to determine the amount of capacity you actually need for the space you are trying to cool or heat. The ACCA manual J calculation method is a common one that many contractors use. Your situation is even a little more complicated and, if I understand it, you are essentially trying to cool/heat the upstairs with a new system and let the downstairs system as it is but, if it fails you would not replace it. One problem you might face with this approach will be load matching for the period when you have both systems and in the future, when you might only have the new, upstairs system. The contractor, doing the proper calculations can tell you how much cooling you might need for both those scenarios. However, since you are considering using both or just one system (eventually) your approach most closely resembles a zoned system with at least two zones. So, you might want to ask contractors to quote various solutions for serving these two zones (and not the basement). In any case we would encourage you to get quotes for both ducted and ductless options from a few different contractors before deciding which way to go.
      A problem you might have with simply adding a ductless system to the upstairs could be with providing proper airflow from the upstairs system to the downstairs space. In a ducted system, you get air circulation (and filtration) throughout the whole ducted space. With ductless systems the indoor evaporators are designed to circulate air in the space where they are placed (usually one or more rooms or zones) but most are not designed to share airflow among the various zones. You might want to ask the contractors about this.
      You might also consider just replacing your old system with a 16 SEER or better AC system that has at least two steps of capacity modulation. That way you can shut off the ducts to the basement when you don’t need to cool that space and but you can also cool your upstairs and still have enough capacity to cool both upstairs and downstairs. You would still get good, filtered, air flow to both zones and the system will adjust to match your needs on both hot days and on mild days when humidity management is actually more of a problem than temperature control. There are some other articles on this site which discuss this.
      Good luck with your HVAC project. I hope these suggestions help you find a good solution for your space!

  8. I read your article and comments on the min split units. Great article. My question is should I replace all my old windows first? I’ve replaced 8 windows so far. At least 8 more to go. I live in old house with original corded windows. I have one main duct from forced air to second story. Main level has plenty of duct work to all rooms. Thinking about adding central air but no ducts in upstairs bedrooms. I don’t like the look of the pipes running up my walls on the outside of my House. The two bedrooms upstairs has new Windows. Window units I worry about the windows getting ruined. What’s my best option.

    • John – If you have any attic space available above the second floor you could put one new ducted air handler there and run flex ducts or other ductwork to the upstairs rooms. This would give you two main zones – one down and one up and only one set of refrigerant lines running to your attic from the outdoor unit. Also for the upstairs unit you might consider a 16 SEER or better two step system that modulates the capacity down at night and on days in the spring and fall. That way, you would have a little overlap in cooling to the upstairs which might be an advantage on the hottest days. You can also just close the damper on the duct running to the upstairs for the times you don’t really need it. The two stage systems are pretty forgiving when you have two zones because they can operation at full capacity or at 67% capacity which might address the humidity control issues you might be having. In any case, if you take out window units you will need to add that equivalent cooling capacity back into the space otherwise your current system will not keep up. You can also get quotes for both ductless and ducted system options as well until you find a solution you like. Hope this helps. Good luck with your HVAC project!

  9. I wonder if there is anyone out there that has experienced use of a mini split in South West Florida. I have about 400 sq ft to cool, heat is not a problem.

    • Barb – I was in a rental home in the Southwest Florida Keys a few years ago that had a two evaporator, ductless mini-split. One evaporator unit was on the wall in the main living area and one was in the master bedroom. Granted, it was only March but the system did a good job. The owners put a through wall, window unit in the second bedroom and it did not do as well with cooling and dehumidification and it was noisy. I think most of the posts on this site would suggest that mini-splits are a step up from window units, especially for smaller, zoned spaces. However, we have encouraged consumers to get quotes for both ductless and ducted solution, especially for larger spaces since prices and installation costs can vary. Ducted central AC systems rated at 16 SEER or better with at least two steps of capacity modulation might also be worth considering due to their ability to provide superior air flow, air filtration and dehumidification. In any case, make sure the contractor gets your system sized properly for your situation and make sure the condensate drain lines are easy to access and are kept clean to allow proper flow of the condensed moisture out of your living space. Good luck wth your HVAC project!

  10. I’ve had a Mitsubishi dual zone in my Maryland home (1927, no ducts) for three years. Very positive. I am planning to get a second dual zone for upstairs. Just need to upgrade my insulation, but it has been reliable and ranks me well above my energy efficient neighbors and saves lots of money on utility bills.

    • Hi Eric. It is not surprising to see significant improvements when a homeowner replaces window/room air conditioners with ducltess mini-splits. Homes without existing ductwork that only have room/window air conditioners seem to be ideal mini-split applications – especially when zoning is a critical need. However, we have encouraged our readers to get quotes for both ducted and ductless solutions and to consider the relative benefits before making their final decision. I had both sytems quoted in my home that did not have any ductwork and the ducted solution was both cheaper and provided superior comfort and energy saving benefits. This might not be typical for all homes but I have seen this in other posts as well. It is good that you have been satisfied with your solution and I do not doubt you have realized both energy savings and comfort improvements as well. Thanks for your comments.

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