Four Myths About Ductless Mini-Splits

Mini split in room near ceiling

Understanding the Pros & Cons of Ductless Mini-Split AC Systems

Over the past few years we have all observed the U.S. HVAC industry’s fascination with ductless “mini-split” air conditioning systems in the U.S. Recent HVAC trade shows have been crowded with OEM’s promoting this “new” way of providing home comfort. National advertising and media/public relations tactics would make us think it is just a matter of time before we all say goodbye to our central AC systems and get with the rest of the world (i.e. Japan, China and Europe) in the way we keep our homes and businesses cool and comfortable.

The article below was written in 2013. We have updated information for homeowners busting myths about ductless mini split systems, outlining what to consider when choosing a new HVAC system, as well as recommendations on when a ductless system might be right for your space.

The AC & Heating Connect staff has also conducted research on ductless systems and uncovered some facts that might be of interest to contractors and distributors as the industry plans for the future growth of this segment.

Myth #1 – The sales of ductless mini-spit systems continue to grow and will dominate the U.S. market in a few years.

Industry statistics would not support this statement. While the ductless segment has posted impressive growth rates in the U.S. since 2005, the growth rates have been slowing recently and the largest ductless segment (small, single evaporator systems) have not grown at all since 2010. These sales remain stable at about 260,000 units per year, or only about 4% of total unitary AC shipments. Some larger VRF-style commercial systems continue to grow at higher rates, but their numbers in the U.S. remain small at only 28,000 units per year.

Myth #2 – Ductless mini-splits are ideal whole-home HVAC solutions in the U.S.

The current economic facts about ductless simply do not support this claim. The installed costs associated with using mini-splits to cool and heat an average 2,000 square foot home with ductless mini-splits would cost almost three times the cost of simply replacing your central AC system with another ducted system. Even in a home where you had to provide new ductwork for the central system, you could still expect to spend about 50% less on a typical central AC system installation versus the more expensive ductless options.

Myth #3 – Ductless mini-splits are more energy efficient because there are no air leaks in the ductwork.

What people who make this claim fail to mention is that in ducted homes, which have poorly installed and leaking air ducts, the conditioned air is probably leaking out of the ductwork but it is going into the conditioned space somewhere and helping to keep the house cool. In those cases the cooling energy is really not lost to the homeowner. While mini-splits don’t have duct losses, they do have other losses. Instead of distributing conditioned air throughout the home, mini-splits distribute refrigerant. In many cases these refrigerant lines are run outside the conditioned space and in these cases there are thermal losses associated with energy transferring from those lines to the space outside the home. A legitimate energy loss occurs when you are heating or cooling your backyard with mini-split refrigerant lines (see photo below). Duct leaks that leak into the conditioned space are not really losses at all unless they escape to an unconditioned space. The other claim made by mini-split advocates is that they provide energy saving due to “zoning” or shutting off energy use in unoccupied rooms. What they fail to mention is there are other modern methods to zone off rooms besides using ductless methods. There are many ways to achieve zoning.

*Discover the updated status of this myth here.

Myth #4 – Ductless mini-splits provide superior comfort and quality of life.

The problems with ductless cooling are not well understood by many U.S. consumers since they are relatively new to this region. The typical comfort experience with mini-split systems could provide a real challenge for American consumers who are used to central AC systems with good airflow exchange, filtration and humidity control. Cold and hot spots are also common with ductless systems due to the spacing of the indoor units. In addition, there are concerns about US homeowners’ reaction to the aesthetic and architectural impact of having air conditioning systems hanging on several interior walls and having refrigerant lines running to various rooms on the sides of their homes. Before installing a ductless system with multiple evaporating units it might be good to show your customer some photographs of some of your previous mini-split installations so they have proper expectations.

*Discover the updated status of this myth here.

The Bottom Line on Ductless Mini-Split Systems

Ductless mini-split systems are ideal for spot cooling situations in homes and businesses where ductwork is either not available or difficult to install. It is important for contractors to have these systems in their portfolio of HVAC solutions for certain situations and learning where and when to recommend them is essential. Knowing the facts associated with these new systems is also essential to avoiding problems when customers are surprised by the many “myths” about this technology.

The myths in this article have been reevaluated. You can find the updated article here.

What has your experience been with ductless mini-splits? Leave us a comment below!

A typical indoor wall-mounted, evaporating unit – usually one per room are required to minimize hot and cold spots.

A typical U.S. style home is shown here with a retrofit mini-split system. Notice the exterior line sets and condensate drains. Thermal losses could be expected from the vertical, external refrigerant lines and these might cause the system to have trouble keeping up on really hot days. Also, notice that the window-room air conditioners have not yet been removed. A close up photo of the house above, showing the external refrigerant lines and a condensate drain line. Ductless mini-split systems are often used to cool room additions as shown here in the garage area. A large, high rise apartment building is shown, using many mini-split systems – one or more per apartment.A large, urban apartment building is shown, using mini-split systems – one or more per apartment.

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538 thoughts on “Four Myths About Ductless Mini-Splits

  1. This is a great textbook application for a mini split system. REMEMBER a “Ducted” system is a “Central Vacuum System” for your home, it sucks all the contaminates from your whole house, and uniformly re-distributes them EVERYWHERE !

    This includes areas they were not previously. Why would you have to clean ducts ? As well older ducts/ducts NOT designed for ac can be improperly insulated, this = condensation. Condensation = MOLD !

    They can and will drip water into the insulation in your walls and attic/floor space. Water dripping on drywall backing = BLACK MOLD !

    For someone concerned about allergies, I’d watch this one !

    Far cleaner is a ductless system, the issue would be if the “HOA” will allow placement of “ANY” not just mini split, ac compressors on the property, outside your unit ? I believe as you would be on the ground floor, this offers you much more options, and maybe you could hide them in the bushes, so to speak.

    The reason I oppose one compressor, multi head mini split systems is simple, EFFICANCY.

    Example you are installing ac in two bedrooms, one is a guest room, you don’t use. The other the master. You are told each requires 1.5 tons of cooling, 2 x 1.5 = 3. Ok so you now need a 3 ton rated compressor. You are paying to run a 3 ton compressor when you only require 1.5 tons of capacity. Do you see an issue here ? I do !

    As well the x-tra valves, controls and parts are trouble prone, and added maint. down the road.

    I agree replace the furnace with a new high efficiency unit AND add a HEPPA and whole house electrostatic, electronic filter at the same time. I would NOT add the central ac.

    Another issue to check, and it sounds like you may have it now, have the new place as well check for it, “DUCTBOARD” this is a toxic nightmare from , to say the least.

    It is on the outside shiny aluminum foil skin bonded over a nylon netting which is covering a sheet of fiberglass batting, bonded with deadly chemicals mainly formaldehydes ! Inside the “Ductboard” the air is at great velocity in 100% contact with this bare, raw chemical laden fiberglass.

    For the life of the system it leaches fiberglass shards, fiberglass dust and formaldehyde vapors into your living space. I have personally been into attics and seen these ducts where 100% of the fiberglass was gone inside the duct, and only the foil was left flapping in the wind.

    This happens at high velocity areas inside the duct for example where the transition is from the HVAC system outlet to the “DUCBOARD” system and at 90 degree bends.

    These systems as well, as in essence your duct is lined with “Shag Carpeting” attract all sorts of dirt, dust, debris and can not be cleaned.

    What happened to all that fiberglass and formaldehyde, that is now gone from inside the ducts ? It is now in the lungs of the building occupants, because remember the air IS filtered going into the system, it IS NOT filtered going out of the system !

    It is my understanding the installation of systems using this product, are now banned or no longer allowed (?) BUT ! there are still thousands of miles of this stuff in use today in older 80’s constructions, BEWARE !

    As well regardless of the type of ac system you select, go with the highest SEER you can find, this means a “inverter Compressor” system.

    On the mini split ac, for a few bucks more you can add “Reverse Cycle” (This is what nearly all motels have today, that have ac/heating in one unit usually under the outside widow of your room)

    It WILL save you money is you only need heat in say the living room on a lazy Sunday at home, and the bedroom at night, vs running the furnace, sized to heat the whole house, regardless of the fuel source(s)

    As I said prior, I own 5 Mini-Splits. They are 3) 1.5 ton and 2) 2. ton rated units. Here now it is in the upper 90’s F and 80% RH the two ton units are pulling ONLY 2.2 amps each !!! The 1.5 tons, ONLY 2.0 amps each !

    Do the math here folks that’s 10.4 amps TOTAL for all 5 units, your “Whole house” ac well I can tell you friends, it’s drawing from 28 to 50 amps right now !

    It’s your money ! Dirk

    T

    • Thanks again for your post, Dirk. These are very interesting points.

      I am sure all ductwork and installations are not the same but I installed some fiberglass duct board type ducts in my home about 20 years ago and they are still working fine. I was looking just last night at the supply vents and they are still very clean with no accumulations of dust or dirt or anything. On the other hand, I had a pretty good contractor install the system and I also bought a premium air filter. Also, it looks like duct board products are still in use today as I checked an industry association web site – http://www.naima.org/insulation-knowledge-base/duct-hvac-insulation/types-of-fiber-glass-duct-insulations.html

      I will continue to watch this issue and might need to do some more research on it. Please check back with the site in a few weeks. If I find anything new on this topic it will appear as a new article so you might need to search for it.

  2. Hi,
    I am new to this forum & have found it very informative. I am considering buying a 1200 sq. foot condo in Southern California. The condo has 2 bedrooms & a kitchen + great room. It is on the first floor of a 3 floor building. The condo was built in the mid-80s. It has heating supplied by a central furnace. There is no air conditioning. Both my spouse & I have severe allergies. At our present condo, we had a company out to clean the ducts and were told that the material used to make the ducts could not be cleaned without tearing. Before we make an offer, I am having an air conditioning contractor look at the system & advise us as to the feasibility of utilizing the existing ductwork to install air conditioning. We are going to be repainting the condo, so if we have to install new ductwork, this would be a good time to do it.I want to know if the furnace looks like it needs to be replaced. Finally, I want estimates as to the costs of both going with the duct system & a duct less system. Are there any other questions I should ask the contractor. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    • Hi Gail – I think you are on the right path to making a good decision. I would encourage you to get 2-3 quotes for both ducted and ductless options and for the ducted option – and also get itemized estimates and the contractors’ opinions about the need to replace the existing ductwork. It will take some time and effort but it will be worth it. Prices vary from region to region and from one contractor to the next and it pays to shop these purchases since on average, people in the US spend between $8,000 to $10,000 for a new or replacement HVAC system – and more if you go with a premium system.
      Here are a few other things you might want to consider and discuss with the contractors. By the way, our recent research indicates that finding a contractor you are comfortable with will be very important, irrespective of the type of system you choose. Here is a link.

      http://www.ac-heatingconnect.com/four-things-you-should-know-about-your-air-conditioning-and-heating-system-before-you-decide-to-replace-it/

      First of all, on the need to replace your furnace, the national average age at replacement for HVAC systems is about 16 years but run-time is more important than years. So, if your furnace/heating system in Southern California is the original system, it might be twice the national replacement average age but if it did not get much run time during those years and was well maintained it could still be ok. You can ask your contractor about this after he inspects it.

      One of the things you mentioned is your allergies. The tradeoffs with ducted versus ducted systems on this topic tend to vary from region to region and the individuals involved. If you have very bad ductwork that has lots of leaks and has accumulated a lot of allergens then it might be a good idea to replace it or go with ductless. However, if you go with a ductless AC only system, you will still be using your ducted furnace during the heating season. Leaving ductwork off for a whole cooling season and then turning it on during the heating season could be causing some dust/allergy problems – especially on start up. One of the benefits of a central, ducted system is better whole home air circulation through a fairly large filter built into the ductwork. When you discuss your ductwork, also discuss the various types of air filters you can purchase – they have all kinds. If your ductwork is not too bad, you might be able to just add a very good air filtration system to address some of your allergy challenges. In contrast, the ductless systems tend to have smaller air filters and they only circulate air in one space – usually a room at a time. The air delivery and the return are all in the unit that hangs on your wall or in your ceiling. So, while you don’t have ductwork, you also may not have good airflow and air filtration throughout your home. This becomes really important in places where there is high humidity due to the potential for mold. This may not be an issue in your CA ocation but it is something to consider and to discuss with your contractors.

      Another topic you should discuss is energy costs. Both ducted and ductless systems come in various efficiency ratings so you should be aware of this. The AC rating is called SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) and the same rating is used for both ducted and ductless systems. One energy-saving advantage of ductless is that you can zone off sections of your space by just not running the system in those spaces or by adjusting the temperature so it does not run as much. If you feel like you can zone off rooms and spaces in your condo this might be something to consider. You can also zone off a ducted system by simply adjusting the vents for more or less air flow and there are even some automated systems that allow you do this remotely. However, if you plan to zone off and shut down a big part of your space with a central system you should go with a 16+ SEER system with at least two steps of capacity modulation. This will allow the system to adjust down the cooling required for a significantly smaller space. If you have too much cooling capacity, the system will not run long enough during cycles to get proper airflow. The variable capacity central AC systems also provide better temperature control and are less noisy than fixed capacity (13-14 SEER) systems. Your contractors should advise you on expected energy costs and comfort benefits of the systems quoted and the various SEER levels for each.

      One other suggestion would be to consider a “heat pump” in either your ducted or ductless options. Heat pumps are air conditioning systems that sort of run in reverse during the heating season. These heat pumps can be a very energy efficient way to heat your home when the temperature is not lower than about 15 to 20F. Since it does not get that cold in your area you might be able to use a heat pump to heat for the whole heating season. Some people add heat pump air conditioning systems to their existing (older) gas furnace systems to allow switching back and forth from electric to gas based on the relative rates during the season. Heat pumps are a little more expensive than straight AC only systems but the energy savings you get with a heat pump could pay that back over a few seasons depending on how you use it. You might talk to your contractors about this heat pump option.

      We also encourage people to discuss proper sizing (capacity, BTU/Hr) for any new systems because if the capacity you install is too much or too little for your space and the amount of insulation, sunlight, etc you might have problems. For the size of your home, if you go with mini-splits you will probably need more than one or two systems and each system might need more than one indoor evaporator cooling unit. Some people on this site have referenced some concerns with these “multi-evap” ductless systems which have one outdoor unit that drives multiple indoor evaporators on the walls or ceilings in your home. I am not sure exactly what the concerns were but it could be related to the long refrigerant lines used to send cool gas to the indoor units but I am not sure. You might ask your contractors about the potential problems of having these long refrigerant lines and how they are going to install and insulate them. Also, ask them about the condensate (moisture) lines that run from each indoor unit to drain outside and how often these need to be cleaned or serviced.

      Also, since you are in condominium facility you should probably check with your association and local regs to see if there are any restrictions on types of air conditioners you can install. If you go with mini-splits you should also talk to your contractors about how these will look on the interior and exterior of your building. I hope this helps you with your HVAC project!

  3. After reading this post on the “Myths” I found it very biased, a mini split ac system is the only way to go. As Americans living fulltime in Mexico, we own 5, from 1.5 to 2 ton. They are all inverter units.

    The comfort offered is far superior to ANY central system, as well you have individual control over each and every room. Statements like most are not ready for mini splits ?????

    Bedrooms are a very good example, you can of course cool it as you like, without running a whole house system. Ductless mini splits ARE far more efficient than any central system, offering far more comfort.

    Efficiency IS NOT leaking ducts, but it is, running a compressor sized to chill a barn, vs one or two mini splits cooling the rooms you need cooled, = massive savings ! AND more comfort.

    As to cost, I agree that these units are FAR more expensive in the USA vs Mexico and South America, like 3 to 4 times. As in Mexico for example MOST appliances and electronics are double (or more) US prices, a 1.5 ton mini split system new in the box can be had for about 4-500 USD ! Add about USD 200 for inverter.

    They are very easy to install, but the one downside to the American Market would be the fact each unit has it’s own compressor that must be mounted close to the placement of the unit on the wall in the home. This means if you cool 5 rooms you will have 5 compressors scattered around your home.

    One more comment as to comfort, ac chilled air MUST enter the cooled area at the CEILING ! not the floor as most residential systems do. Cooled air is very dense and drops like a rock, blowing it through floor vents designed for heat, then returning it through a floor return, designed to return cooled air for heating is not efficient nor comfort.

    A mini split system delivers the cooled air AT THE CEILING where it belongs, it ALSO picks up the air to be cooled AT THE CEILING, OK where is the hottest air in any room, HELLO the ceiling !

    Central ducted residential ac systems ALL have significant stratification layers of hot and cooled air, this is totally eliminated with a ductless mini split system. Want the “ULTIMATE” in ac comfort, it ain’t a ducted system for sure.

    HOWEVER if considering a ductless ac system and your contractor wants to save you money by pushing a multi head system with one compressor operating 2 or more head units, run like ! Do not fall for or purchase one of these, you will forfeit any efficiency gains, add more valves/solenoids = more trouble, you are back to running a compressor designed to chill your whole house once more vs one room where ductless systems really shine !

    A ductless system can be installed and up in running in one to two hours !

    • Thanks for your post, Dirk. I appreciate your comments, especially those related to situations where room by room zoning is a priority. Your insight about the placement of the indoor units near the ceiling will be helpful to other visitors to this site who have been having problems with poor air circulation. I also noticed your comments about “mulit-head” or “mulit-evap” systems. We have seen this problem come up from time to time in both comments on this site and also in the DOE testing reports.

      I am hoping to provide a sumamry and a recap of all the posts on this topic over the next few weeks so you might want to check back then if you are interested. Thanks again for your post.

  4. Hi Frank,
    I live in Michigan and am looking at buying a 1300 square foot home with a cement “Michigan” basement. It currently has electric baseboard heat and window air conditioners. I’m looking to retrofit a/c and more efficient heating, but am very confused on which options are best price and quality for both installation and long-term use.

    • Hi Deborah – Considering the size of your home and the fact that it is in Michigan you can probably consider a few different options for both heating and cooling but your most critical need will probably be for heating. You could start by getting quotes from local contractors for a central ducted gas furnace with an air conditioner as part of the package. It should be relatively inexpensive to run ductwork across the ceiling of the unfinished part of your basement to hit all the rooms on the first floor and maybe run deliveries to the second floor through the walls. Some people in your area have also been buying a “heat pump” style air conditioner to go along with the gas furnace. This combination can be an efficient way to use the heat pump to heat your home on days and nights when the temperature is above about 15-20F. When it gets below that range you can switch to the gas furnace. Another consideration might be to buy a high efficiency system which could offer both lower energy costs and improved comfort. In any case, the new equipment you buy could, (and probably will) reduce your energy costs relative to your current equipment, depending on various factors. Your contractor can probably give you energy savings estimates for this along with the quotes you get from them.

      You could also have a few contractors quote ductless mini-splits (subject of this artcle) but the heating function on these units are also “heat pumps” so when the outdoor temperature gets really cold they will probably be running on their internal, electric resistance heaters so these may not be very efficient and/or might have trouble keeping up with the cold Michigan winters. If you decide to go this route I would recommend keeping your baseboard electric heaters for at least one heating season to make sure your heating needs can be met by your new system.
      We usually recommend getting at least three quotes for each style of system before deciding. The contractor should also make sure the system is sized properly for your home and the amount of insulation you have, the R-value of the windows, etc. Our recent research suggests that having a good contractor is a very important part of your overall satisfaction with your new system so you should plan to take some time on finding the right ones – see the links below.

      There are many other articles on this searchable site which could answer other questions you might have about terms like “heat pump” and “mini’splits”, etc. I hope this helps. Good luck with your HVAC project!

      http://www.ac-heatingconnect.com/four-things-you-should-know-about-your-air-conditioning-and-heating-system-before-you-decide-to-replace-it/

      http://www.acca.org/locator

  5. Hi there, I am very new to this forum. I live in a row home in Philadelphia which has radiator heat. We use a large in the wall air conditioner unit for our downstairs living room space and 3 separate units in the windows for the bedrooms. Would it be more efficient for us to have a Duct A/C unit installed or these mini units everyone is talking about. The large unit cools most of the down stairs except for the kitchen when I am cooking & the bathroom is like a sauna. I would appreciate any feedback you could give me. Thanks

    • Hi Janet –

      In general, people who move from window/room AC to ductless mini-splits will realize both increased energy efficiency and improved comfort. To the extent that you can locate the mini-split indoor wall units to get proper cool air flow into the various rooms you might also be able to address the cold/hot spots you mentioned. However, you can also realize many of those same benefits (and maybe others) with a ducted system – but since you have no existing ductwork it might be difficult or expensive to have a central ducted system installed. What we recommend on this site is to have at least three qualified HVAC contractors quote your job as both a ducted job and a ductless job to compare prices and also to allow you to select a contractor you are comfortable with.

      A few other points to consider would be doing this job in phases or as a hybrid approach, using both ducted and ductless combinations. For example, talk to the contractors about addressing certain problem areas first – maybe get a ducted or ductless solution for the upstairs space and/or a small mini-split for your bathroom “sauna” and that surrounding area. Since you already have radiator heat you should also ask them about the benefits of installing a (ducted or ductless) heat pump (does both heating and cooling) to use on more moderately cold days in the fall and spring seasons instead of your boiler. You might have to talk to a few different contractors to find one that is on the same page with your particular HVAC situation and how to resolve it. So, plan on this taking some time and effort to figure it all out.

      One other point, no matter what type of system you decide to go with (ducted or ductless), make sure it is sized properly for your space. The contractor should look at the size of your space, the amount of insulation, the type of windows, etc before determining the size of system(s) you will need. Proper sizing and installation are critical to both the energy efficiency and comfort you get from your HVAC system.

      I think it might be worth reading through some of the other posts on this article and one other similar article (link below) to see other opinions and suggestions. I hope you find this information helpful. Good luck with your HVAC project!

      http://www.ac-heatingconnect.com/when-should-you-install-a-ductless-air-conditioner/

  6. Thanks for the helpful blog and forum – lots of useful information here. We decided to convert our garage into living space recently so needed to decide on an HVAC system. I am a general contractor so I have been involved with the placement of various types of HVAC equipment in lots of homes. I figured that a ductless mini-split heat pump would be the easiest and cheapest to use but all the quotes that came in for mini-splits were about the same as the ones I got for adding a small central AC/heat pump system with the air handler and ducts in the rafters above the space. The ducted system was actually cheaper than the ductless after all said and done… $4600 for the ducted system and $6k+ for the ductless.

    We did not have a lot of space to mount the wall units anyway and running condensate lines in the ceiling was difficult to due to the space available. It gets humid here in the summer and I had heard a lot about mini-splits not dealing well with that so I went with the conventional HVAC and have been happy with it – good air flow and no issues with humidity. Also, visually it looks a lot nicer than having the ductless unit on the wall and this is probably better for resale… since it looks cleaner and more like what people are used to having in their homes.

    We set the air handler at the end of the attic space and ran insulated round, hard air supplies around the outside edge of the attic to maximize storage space and also to maximize filtered air flow from the air handler. Also, with mini-splits, each ductless unit has its own condensate drain line to run outside, so with just one central air handler we only have to worry about one of them getting clogged up over time and spilling over. We installed a pan with a drain tube and pan switch that sends a message to the thermostat to turn off if there is any blockage in the drain tube.

  7. I am a novice ! I have a small studio under 500 sq. ft. An open studio with 14 ft ceilings there will not be enough for attic ducts for heat/ac which unit of the ductless kind is the best to provide heat and ac? Are,there showrooms in LA area? Thank you

    • Hi Kelcey – A ductless mini-split should work well in that space which, I guess is in the LA geographic area. We recommend getting quotes from a couple different contractors and brands before you decide. I would also ask them to make sure your unit is sized properly for your space and also ask them about adding ceiing fans to help with air flow. You can usually find local HVAC contractors with an internet search and then schedule an apppointment to get an estimate. Our charter does not allow us to recommend specific equipment brands or service providers. Good luck with your HVAC project!

  8. Nothing at ALL suspicious or biased about this bit of advertising. Why on earth would anyone put any kind of faith in anything this bit of trip has to say about ductless heating and air conditioning systems? The guys at companies such as Emerson, the ones who make the lion’s share of their income from repairing, replacing, and supporting those big units in your basement, have a vested interest in keeping that market flowing.

    Sort of like the tankless water heater. I’ve heard so many arguments against that, too. But… do you REALLY want to waste your money on re-heating the same tank of water over and over again? And then, if your tank isn’t big enough? You run out half way through your shower because you forgot you had already turned on the dishwasher, and the washing machine was running, too! But a few point of demand (POD) water heaters and you not only have to worry about that problem, but you can get rid of that big rusty tank in your basement.

    So, too, with the ductless heating systems. Why would you want to keep heating/cooling that spare bedroom or the downstairs/upstairs/back room if they are not being used at the moment? If you are at home alone, in your bedroom at night, do you really want to be cooling the whole house? Why? It doesn’t make sense. Ahh! But, to get ductless systems would make no dollars for companies like Emerson.

    So, again, I am moved to ask: Why would anyone put any credence in anything such a company might say about a competitor?

    • Thanks, Reese. I wrote the original article in July 2013 in response to a number of industry comments and editorials on this topic. The intention was to bring some balance back to the discussions going on at that time. We also hope to publish an update to the original article in the near future.
      In situations where a homeowner is considering both types, we usually point out the pros and cons of both and also recommend getting quotes from multiple contractors for both types before deciding. We have also provided links to a Department of Energy study to answer specific questions and address claims about comparisons of ducted versus ductless systems (shown below).
      http://info.ornl.gov/sites/publications/Files/Pub34446.pdf
      By the way, I agree with your points about room-by-room zoning, as this is a real benefit to ductless in situations where room zoning is a priority.

  9. Frank,

    I am in the process of designing an 1.100 square foot, single level craftsman cottage in Bend, Oregon (cold winters, hot (dry but not humid) summers, and I’m interested in your thoughts on whether I should have my house designed for a ducted HVAC system or ductless mini-splits. The small house design includes 2 bedrooms (with high vaulted ceilings), 2 bathrooms, and a combined living room/dining/kitchen area with high vaulted ceilings. Overall, there is a lot of openness between the rooms and not much of a need for zone control. However, a similar house (size and design) was recently built by a spec builder in Bend and he installed a single air exchange mitsubishi unit in the open living/dining/kitchen area (this single air exchange was the only unit installed in the house).

    It seems like the house that I am designing fits the bill for a traditional ducted system, but having seen a similar house design with the single air exchange mitsubishi unit, I’m now confused as to which route makes the most sense.

    Given the open nature of the house, its small size (1,100 sf), and the area where this house is being built (Bend, Oregon), which system would be more cost efficient and effective?

    And if ducted is the way to go, given that this house has high ceilings without much space above them for the ducts, would the ducts need to be installed in the crawlspace?

    Thanks so much in advance for your thoughts!

    Angela

    • Hi Angela – Given the size of your home and the climate there in Oregon, I think you could go with either a ducted central system or a ductless min-split as long as the system was sized properly by a good contractor. We usually recommend getting quotes for both ducted and ductless systems in these cases, and from at least two or three contractors before deciding because the equipment prices and installation labor charges can vary greatly for each. A few other things to consider are: if the mini-split (or any heat pump) is going to be your only source of heat in the winter and the temperatures frequently go below about 20F you might want to compare the energy costs associated with various types of heating systems as well as cooling. Heat pumps tend to be costly to operate when the ambient is very low (you can see other articles on this site which explain why this is). The heat pump decision might also depend on the relative prices for electricity versus natural gas in your area.
      Most people who use mini-splits also really like the zoning benefits which you don’t seem to need. Conversely, you have a pretty wide open space and this sometimes presents a challenge for mini-splits. These ductless systems often provide adequate, conditioned air flow to the room where the unit is located but the spaces far away from the units are less well supplied (for both heating and cooling) but ceiling and other fans could help with this.
      Improved air filtration is another benefit you might get with a ducted system as the air is circulated throughout the home and through a fairly large filter as it operates. This could help with dust, pollen and other potential allergens depending on the type of air filter you select. Running ductwork in a crawlspace or in an attic space is pretty common. You should also probably compare the warranty programs and expected useful life assumptions for any system you purchase as well. If you are concerned about the impact to future resale value you might check with some local realtors to see if people in your area have a preference for mini-splits versus traditional ducted central HVAC systems.
      Here is link to a DOE study which provides more details on the topic of ducted versus ductless.

      http://info.ornl.gov/sites/publications/Files/Pub34446.pdf#sthash.Jr4vOCaD.dpuf

      I hope this helps to answer some of your questions. Good luck with your HVAC project!

  10. I live in a single story 25 year old 4 bedroom 2064 sq ft house with the original gas forced central air furnace and Mastercool evaporative cooler. We have low humidity in Albuquerque. The ceilings are vaulted in every room (max is 19 feet), and the living room, dining room, TV room, kitchen, and breakfast area are all common space. The ducts are in a crawl space below the roof, where it gets so hot in the summer it has melted cable TV insulation, and the ducts are so dirty stuff blows out of the vents to surfaces below. I have kept the Mastercool going 25 years myself, I can fix any problem that arises, however even when new the cooler was under capacity for the volume of the house, at best it reduces the temperature 15 to 20 degrees less than outside. Estimates for new heater/AC were $12k to $15k, not including the needed electrical upgrade which would be another $1500. My wife and I are retired and don’t like the house too cold, but my 2 adult sons like it very cold.
    I was thinking of installing a mini-split for the bedrooms so everybody in the family would be happy, and keeping the evap cooler for the rest of the house. Is it feasible to have both evap cooling for most of the house and a closed mini-split system for the bedrooms? Thanks for this informative site!

    • Hi Steve. It is possible to use mini-splits as room coolers along with your central evaporative cooler. One reason not to do this would be if you were going to have to replace the whole central heating or cooling system soon and you could address all these issues with that one project but it sounds like you have the central units under control and are confident they will last a while.

      Here are few other suggestions – have the contractor make sure the min-split units are sized right for each room with the evap unit running. They need to do some calculations to make sure these are not too big or too small. I am not sure what the airflow situation is going in and out of the two bedrooms but you might ask the contractor about that too. On the ductwork, you could also ask the contractor to quote a better in line air filter for your ductwork and maybe even get them cleaned first – there are service companies and some HVAC contrators who specialize in this. Good luck with your HVAC project and thanks for using our site!

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